#96 of 100 trips - Sandymount to Smaills Beach 1 October 2023

 

The change in weather from yesterdays snow and wind was encouraging enough that 10 people turned up for the start of this trip, a coastal traverse on the Pacific Ocean side of the peninsula which also includes some of the places visited on earlier #100 trips.  Starting at Sandymount (trip #71) we headed straight for the 300m descent down the sand dunes to Sandfly Bay.  It's surprising that so much sand has made it's way so far up the hill and it makes for a fun walk down, with some releasing their inner child  by taking long strides and running while managing to stay upright on the way down while others took a more sedate descent. 

Negotiating your way through the sand dunes is reasonably straightforward, as long as you follow the makers which are designed to keep people away from the penguin breeding places.  Once on the beach at Sandfly Bay we had to make a detour or two to avoid some large sealions sunbathing on the beach, near the walking track.  We were treated to a real spectacle with around 20 sea lions on the beach with some lounging on the warm sand and others cavorting in the waves.  We made the most of  this spectacle by choosing a large washed up log on the deserted beach as a good place to sit for a snack break and enjoy the show that the sea lions put on for us.  

Knowing that we had only started and still had a long way to go, we reluctantly continued along the beach, stopping often to watch the antics of the sea lions or take a detour around those that were relaxing in the sun.  As we neared the end of Sandfly Bay we had the 100m climb up the sand dunes and it was here that we started to encounter large numbers of people heading down to the beach.  Sandfly Bay is a popular beach for seeing sea lions and the warm, sunny weather was obviously bringing the people out.  We were glad that we had been there so early.  We stopped to catch our breath at the lookout and admire the view over Sandfly Bay.

The next part of our walk involved some road walking which we had already done on trip #79 so we knew what to expect and walked along in small groups taking this opportunity of easy walking to chat and look around. We passed paddocks with sheep and lambs bouncing around while looking ahead we could see the road leading us to the hill we would need to climb.  This time of year really shows the extent of the problem that gorse has become is highlighted by it's bright yellow flower. 

Following the road right to the end takes us down the hill to Boulder Beach where we had been on trip #57 when the weather had been wet and misty.  Today it could not have been more different as the earlier clouds had cleared and the temperature was starting to rise.  Once near the bottom of the hill, we took a path that twisted and turned through the vegetation to the Boulder Beach where we scrambled over the rocks to the deserted beach which seemed the perfect place to stop for a lunch break.  

While the beach looked deserted we soon discovered that there were a few sea lions sunbathing away from the waters edge.  Often the sleeping sea lions look like a log until one of their flippers is raised like a sail to test the breeze then a head would pop up to check that nothing of interest is happening then after all that effort, the sea lion would lie back down to continue it's snooze.

We spent more time at Boulder Beach than we probably should have but we were in no rush to leave and  packing up after lunch was slow which probably wasn't the wisest choice as the tide had turned while we had enjoyed our relaxed lunch and it was starting to come in, lapping around the edge of the rocky shore of Boulder Beach.  With most in the group never having been all the way along Boulder Beach the decision was made to walk along the beach to the cliffs at the end and then find our way through the vegetation back to the track. 

Again, this was not the wisest decision as  we could not find a track at the far end of the beach despite scouting around looking for one.  In the end we had to climb over the tussock and brush covered sand dunes while being careful not to disturb any hidden sea lions.  There were times we thought we had stumbled onto a track only to discover that it was a track made by a sea lion and we were left to scout around for a better way again.

 After a few false turns, we eventually stumbled onto a trapping track which lead us back the main track.  The temperatures were really starting to rise as we eyed the hill ahead of us. Up close the climb up the hill did not look as daunting as it had from a distance with the track climbed steadily 120m upwards with frequent stops to catch our breath in rising heat and admire the views opening out behind us. Reaching the top of the hill we again took time to sit and soak up the fantastic views, particularly since we could see where we had started at Sandymount earlier that morning (the hill slightly right of centre in the distance) and Boulder Beach was spread out in front of us. 

It would have been nice to stay here for longer but we still had a few kilometres to go so we reluctantly dragged ourselves away and rounded the headland where we again stopped to admire more spectacular views.  We had been spoiled with wonderful vistas today starting at Sandymount with views looking over the harbour towards the harbour mouth, then along the coast over Sandfly Bay and Boulder Beach and now we had the city with Saddle Hill  and the coast line as far as Nugget Point spread out before us.

As we continued heading towards the Karetai Track (trip #53) ,  we were happy to notice that it was downhill all the way.  The track follows a paper road down hill to Smaills Beach and instead of following the paper road all the way to the bottom, we turned off at Pudneys Cliff to admire the sheer cliffs that plummet 100m straight down to the sea.  Thankful that there was not a breath of wind, we followed the narrow path along the cliff top and continued down to Smaills Beach where there was a tricky rocky scramble down a small bluff to the beach.  Happy to be back at sea level again, it was only a short 5 minute walk through the sand dunes back to the cars and everyone agreed that it had been a wonderful 16.2km walk in 5.5 hours with perfect weather and fantastic views

#53 of 100 trips for 100 years - Smaills Beach - Karetai Track 6 May 2023

 

Like the first time the OTC undertook this trip in May 1930, we gathered at 1pm on Saturday afternoon. With clear, blue skies and the thermometre reaching 20+ degrees, it wasn't surprising that 18 people turned up for the walk.   We gathered at the Smaills Beach carpark and headed across the sand dunes to the beach.  With quite a number of sunbathers and a few surfers bobbing on the waves, there was talk of a swim after the walk but first we had 300m to climb from Smaills Beach to Highcliff Road. A small number of the group opted to take the Karetai Track while the majority took the more adventurous route from the beach, around the cliff edge to Maori Head. 

As we climbed away from the beach, the views really started to open out behind us.  We had an excellent vantage point to see the surfers on Smaills Beach attempting to catch a wave and further back to Lawyers Head with the hills of St Clair and Saddle Hill behind.  The views down the coast extended as far south as Taieri Mouth thanks to the perfect weather.  Despite the easy walking, there were plenty of stops to drink in the outstanding views often followed by the comment that we are so lucky to live in such a beautiful part of the country and with so many great walking opportunities so close to the city. Dunedin had certainly turned on another 'Dunner Stunner' day.

From Maori Head we skirted around the cliff edge to join the Karetai Track at Pudneys Cliff where we took a small detour below the sheer rock buttresses to the cliff viewing area.  I wouldn't recommend the detour to Pudneys Cliff during windy or wet conditions as the track is narrow and slippery but as the sun was shinning and the temperatures in the early 20C's we had no hesitation in venturing to the cliff viewing area.  From here we had stunning views along the impressively steep cliff faces that dropped 140m vertically straight down to the sea below. 

Returning to the Karetai Track we continued up the constant slope of the hill for about 1km to the Karetai Road where we stopped for a snack and drink in the cool shade of some large trees.  After this much needed rest the next part of our journey saw us follow the road, climbing to 300m above sea level before reaching the junction of Highcliff Road.  The Karetai Road is a little used sealed road and we had ample opportunity to stop and admire the views overlooking the green farmland  with the city and coastline stretched out behind.

Highcliff Road is a much busier road and with no footpath on either side, we stuck to single file, keeping well the side to avoid getting in the way of traffic.  We followed the road for 2km to the Soldiers Monument and Peg 41 track. During the walk along Highcliff Road, we were spoilt for choice with views and with such a beautiful day we did not want to rush.

Regrouping before the short but steep 60m climb from Highcliff Road to the Soldiers Monument, it was a complete contrast to the last time we had been here about a month ago for trip#48 Last time the wind had been so strong that we could barely stand at the monument where as today it was calm, with not a breath of wind.  We enjoyed the stunning views of the harbour from such a great viewpoint. 

The rest of the trip was an easy wander down the Peg 41 track, hugging the fence line most of the way down the hill we negotiated a paddock with cows, another with gorse and finally an empty paddock with the final stretch though a small patch of native bush bordering the Tomahawk Lagoon. The colours of the setting sun were reflected in the calm waters of the lagoon where the resident ducks and swans were settling down for the night. 

After the lagoon, it's about a 1.5km road walk back to Smaills Beach and the cars.  As time was getting on towards 5pm with the sun starting to set it was decided that the time for a swim was past and everyone was happy to climb in the car for a ride home.  It was a very pleasant afternoon walk of 12.3km over a leisurely 3 hours 45 minutes

#45 of 100 trips for 100 years - Tomahawk Lagoon-Peg 41track 8 April 2023 (by Jade Pettinger)

 

Ten of us gathered at the clubrooms on Saturday afternoon for what was to be the first OTMC day trip during Easter weekend in at least 50 years. Heartened by the good numbers for a long weekend, we set out for Tomahawk Lagoon ready to conquer the Peg 41 track.

On arrival at Tomahawk Lagoon, we took a few minutes to admire the bird life before setting off. The beginning of the track winds its way through the bush on the edge of the lagoon before a sudden, steep climb out of the bush and into farm paddocks. As soon as we clambered over the rickety stile and emerged onto the expansive grassy paddocks, the views began to open up in front of us. The white sands and glistening blue ocean of Tomahawk and Smails Beach spread out in front of us.

Despite the cool wind, layers were soon being shed as the climb up the Peg 41 track was steady. We fell into a single file line as we skirted the edge of a paddock. This piece required some concentration as the paddock had an electric fence running up the side of it and all it would have taken was a slight misstep to end up electrocuted! Thankfully we were all careful and made it to the top unharmed.

Climbing over another stile, we had now joined onto the Soldiers Monument track that comes up from Highcliff Road. As we got closer to our destination, the wind seemed to increase. Once we arrived at the base of the monument, we soon found it was difficult to stand as the wind buffeted us. Some brave souls ventured up onto the monument, while the other more sensible ones found a perch out of the wind to have a snack.

Those of us who went up onto the monument had our breath taken away by the wind, and had to hang onto any loose clothing (even our glasses) as the wind threatened to take them away. It was a bit of a comedy show watching people try to walk around the monument as they struggled against the wind. The handrail was crushed in a death grip as it felt as if all it would take was one extra-strong gust and we would have been airborne. The view down the Otago Harbour was incredible, with not a cloud in the sky. Standing up there with the wind barrelling through your hair is certainly one way to feel alive.

It’s safe to say we didn’t hang around the top for too long - just long enough to devour some chocolate eggs (well it was Easter!) and take a quick team photo. Our intrepid leader decided that instead of walking back the same way, we would make the trip and loop and head down Centre Road. We headed down the steep track towards Highcliff Road, pleased to be leaving the wind behind as we dropped down below the summit.

It was single file again once we were on Highcliff Road to avoid becoming roadkill as we made the 500m or so journey to Centre Road. The road stretched out in a seemingly endless line in front of us, but as we chit chatted our way downhill we were surprised at how quickly the time went. We lamented that the best views were hidden behind trees or farm paddocks and were unable to be seen from the road.

Before we knew it we were rounding the corner back to Tomahawk Lagoon. We had made good time with a total trip time of around 2 hours, which no doubt would have been longer had the wind not been so strong. Although on the shorter side, it was a perfect way to spend a sunny Saturday afternoon.

by Jade Pettinger

#12 of 100 trips for 100 years - Tomahawk to Highcliff 26 November 2022

This day trip is one that was first completed by the Otago Tramping Club on 6 October 1923. 99 years later, a group of 8 OTMC members met to recreate this early OTC trip, which is predominately a road walking trip over what would have been gravel roads and is now sealed. Starting at the old tram terminus (junction of Silverton, Highcliff and Tomahawk Road), we followed Tomahawk Road around to the Andersons Bay Cemetery where we took a detour through the cemetery before rejoining Tomahawk Road to cross the bridge and then take another detour onto Tomahawk Beach.

With the tide out there was a large strip of exposed sand and very few people which made for very pleasant walking. All too soon the beach came to an end and we headed up through the soft sand dunes to the Ocean Grove playground, where we again rejoined Tomahawk Road and then onto Centre Road. Now the fun part began as we started the steady climb up Centre Road. There was much to see on Centre Road, from admiring the old stone cottage, marvelling at the windswept trees, checking out the sections for sale, patting the horses and looking behind at the vast ocean. 

It's a climb of about 200m over nearly 3km and with very little traffic we were able to walk and chat in pairs and in small groups which made the climb pass very quickly. Once we reached the top of Centre Road and onto Highcliff Road we were rewarded with our first views of the Otago Harbour. We spent a few minutes looking across the harbour to Signal Hill and the Burns Reserve which is where we'd been nearly a month ago for trip #4/100 trips. 

A short walk along Highcliff Road and we took another short detour up the hill to the Soldiers Monument with panoramic views of the harbour, Mt Cargill, Dunedin City and Saddle Hill. It is not often that there is no/very little wind at the monument and we made the most of this rare opportunity by having a break and refueling with snacks and a drink. From the Soldiers Monument it is all down hill, following Highcliff Road back to the junction with Silverton Street and Tomahawk Road, where we had started 11 km and 3 hours earlier. 

Despite being a road walking trip, it ticked all the boxes 

• great social trip by being able to walk and talk with others more easily on a sealed road 
• wonderful views of our harbour that are often only glimpsed when traveling by car 
• exercise with a 200+m climb and time to notice things we'd not seen before 
  

 

Day Three Andersons Bay

For today's effort I decided to start where I finished yesterday which meant starting in Tomahawk Road in Andersons Bay.  It also meant that today that there would be a lot more climbing as I was now walking streets on the hill.  Today I walked 14 streets.

10. Gloucester Street
11. Spencer Street
12. Stirling Street
13. Oakland Street
14. Hunt Street
15. Duckworth Street
16. Puketai Street
17. Darnell Street
18. Jeffery Street
19. Kinvig Street
20. Heath Street
21. Sunbury Street
22. Woodside Terrace

23. Merchiston Street

I also walked part of Silverton Street and part of Highcliff Road but I'm not counting these streets until I have completed them. 

It was good to walk along Glochester Street first as it overlooks Ocean Grove and gave me good views of where I had walked yesterday.  

 

 

From Glochester Street it was easy to 'tick' off  a number of streets as Spencer, Stirling, Oakland, Hunt and Duckworth Streets are horizontal to each other and it was reasonably quick to walk up one and down the other.  

 

As I mentioned yesterday, walking the streets means that you notice things that you would otherwise miss and today I noticed this letterbox which was a miniature of the house it belonged to.  

The second half of my walk was a little harder as I was walking down then up the hill.  First I followed Jeffery, then Kinvig and Heath Street down the hill before working my way back up via Sunbury Street.  

One of the benefits of walking the streets on the hill, is that it gives me a chance to see Dunedin from different angles and today I had another good view over the city, this time from Merchiston Street. 

Distance walked: 8.2km     Walking time 1hr  33mins    

Total distance: 18.1km       Total walking 3 hr 22 mins  

Day Two Ocean Grove

Today I decided to start my journey further from home and looking at the map, Ocean Grove looked like a good place to start as it would be a suburb that will be completed in one circuit.  I was rewarded on today's circuit with a number of great views. 

Five streets were completed today.

5. Tomahawk Road (to Centre Road)
6. Oregon Street
7. Lombardy Street
8. Luke Street
9. Minto Street

Tomahawk Road is a quite a long street and has good places to see Tomahawk Lagoon, which is home to black swan, stilts, ducks and eels.  Most of the lagoon shore borders private property but you can take the driveway off Oregon Street which is signposted and is public access to the recreation reserve beside the lagoon. Tomahawk lagoon is one of Dunedin's hidden secrets and is a great spot to bird watch or follow the track around the lagoon and up 41-peg track to the Soldiers Monument on the top of the hill, off Highcliff Road.  

Walking the streets gives you time to notice things that you'd not otherwise notice and at the corner of Oregon and Lombardy Streets is the largest Aloe Vera plant I have seen!

Included in today's walk was an unnamed street at the corner of Tomahawk and Centre Road.  This unnamed street is part of a new sub-division and while it is not part of the streets of Dunedin yet, no doubt it will be one day when the sections are sold and houses are built.  On my way towards Centre Road, I was rewarded with views over Tomahawk Beach that are worth a  rest stop on the way up the hill. 

 

Today's walk included Minto Street whose residents are rewarded with with great views over Tainui and St Kilda. 

Distance walked: 6.1km     Walking time 1hr  7mins  

Total distance: 9.9km       Total walking 1 hr 49 mins