#57 of 100 trips for 100 years - Buskin - Boulder Beach - Paradise Track 20 May 2023 (by Jade Pettinger)

 

I guess a rainy trip was bound to happen one day, in fact I think we have all been surprised that 56 trips have been completed with good weather so far. Waking up to the gentle pattering of rain on the roof I knew our luck had run out, and so ensued the mental battle of “do I roll over, snuggle into my warm bed and go back to sleep OR do I drag myself out of bed, don my wet weather gear and go tramping?”. Obviously tramping was the winner, so despite the misty rain I headed to the designated meeting point, curious to see if any other OTMCers were crazy enough to join me.

Surprisingly by 9am there were seven of us huddled outside the clubrooms, which was six more people than I was expecting. We set off for Highcliff Road in good spirits, however these were soon dampened by the dense mist and relentless rain which only seemed to get thicker the closer we got to our destination. By the time we had disembarked the vehicles and got our gear sorted we were already a wet soggy mess.

The first kilometre or so of our walk took us along Highcliff Road to the start of the Buskin Track, which normally would give us panoramic views over the coast above Boulder Beach. However this was not the case today, instead we had our heads down battling through the stinging rain which felt like ice cold bullets hitting our exposed legs. We made record time along this section of road, reaching our destination in just over 10 minutes, motivated by the prospect of dropping down out of the wind and pelting rain.

This was one of those trips where those of us who need glasses were at a disadvantage, as it was impossible to see through wet, fogged up glasses yet equally impossible to see without them. Whoever invents window wipers for glasses will make a killing…

You certainly needed good eyesight as the first section of the Buskin Track descends over some deceivingly uneven terrain, which coupled with long wet grass created quite the hazard. As we lost height, the cloud started to clear (or maybe we were just dropping out of the cloud) and the views started to open up. Boulder Beach stretched out in the distance, surrounded by the rolling hills of the neighbouring farmland.

The track we were following through farmland soon changed as we reached a small cluster of trees. We traded long grass for a boggy track with slippery planks of wood to help us over the worst of it. This was no obstacle for the mighty OTMC so we quickly skipped our way across with no mishaps.

Our respite from the rain under the tall pine trees was short lived as we were soon back out in the open, with the beach much closer and the terrain flattening out. From here was a short meander to a private cottage which marked the crossroads between the Buskin Track, the Paradise track and the short route to Boulder Beach. As the rain was holding off, we opted to take the short detour to Boulder Beach, which wasn’t as straightforward as one would have thought.

There was no marked route onto the beach, but thankfully there was a track worn in by the multitudes of people who are sure to visit this remote beach each year. Some parts of this track involved pushing our way through thick, head high flax - if we weren’t wet before we were absolutely soaked now. We had to watch our footing as there were troublesome vines hiding in the undergrowth which could easily trip you up if you unknowingly got your foot caught in one, which more than one of us did.

In order to stand on the sand of the beach, we had to slip and slide our way over the slippery boulders (more like rocks) that bordered the sand dunes, giving Boulder Beach its name. Once on the beach some of us went for a wee wander along the water's edge to see if any wildlife could be spotted while others took the opportunity to have a snack and drink. Although it wasn’t raining on the beach, the wind was certainly chilly and we were mindful of the fact the weather was forecast to worsen in the afternoon so we hastily set off again.

Unfortunately we had made a mistake in our excitement to reach the beach and did not take notice of where exactly we had exited the sand dunes onto the beach. However, it only took a short while of wandering around the dunes before we found the track we had followed and thankfully none of us stumbled onto any sleeping sea lions! It was another quick stop in the shelter of the trees at the crossroads to re-energise ourselves before the climb up to Highcliff Road.

While the Buskin Track seemed to snake its way around the hills, the Paradise track took us straight up along the edge of some paddocks. Maybe it was the steeper terrain but the track up certainly seemed to be muddier, which made me glad we didn’t descend this way as it would have turned into a bit of a slip n slide in places.

Before long we left the coastal views behind as we ascended back up into the cloud, which surprisingly was quite dry. We were all pretty soaked by this point so perhaps it was the thought of a warm shower and dry clothes that helped us to make good time up the hill - 30 minutes from the crossroads to Highcliff Road, not bad for close to 300m of elevation gain! 

Maybe it was wishful thinking, but the rain seemed to intensify once we were safely back in the vehicles heading for home. The loop took us 2 ½ hours to complete, including stops with 6.7km traveled.

by Jade Pettinger

#53 of 100 trips for 100 years - Smaills Beach - Karetai Track 6 May 2023

 

Like the first time the OTC undertook this trip in May 1930, we gathered at 1pm on Saturday afternoon. With clear, blue skies and the thermometre reaching 20+ degrees, it wasn't surprising that 18 people turned up for the walk.   We gathered at the Smaills Beach carpark and headed across the sand dunes to the beach.  With quite a number of sunbathers and a few surfers bobbing on the waves, there was talk of a swim after the walk but first we had 300m to climb from Smaills Beach to Highcliff Road. A small number of the group opted to take the Karetai Track while the majority took the more adventurous route from the beach, around the cliff edge to Maori Head. 

As we climbed away from the beach, the views really started to open out behind us.  We had an excellent vantage point to see the surfers on Smaills Beach attempting to catch a wave and further back to Lawyers Head with the hills of St Clair and Saddle Hill behind.  The views down the coast extended as far south as Taieri Mouth thanks to the perfect weather.  Despite the easy walking, there were plenty of stops to drink in the outstanding views often followed by the comment that we are so lucky to live in such a beautiful part of the country and with so many great walking opportunities so close to the city. Dunedin had certainly turned on another 'Dunner Stunner' day.

From Maori Head we skirted around the cliff edge to join the Karetai Track at Pudneys Cliff where we took a small detour below the sheer rock buttresses to the cliff viewing area.  I wouldn't recommend the detour to Pudneys Cliff during windy or wet conditions as the track is narrow and slippery but as the sun was shinning and the temperatures in the early 20C's we had no hesitation in venturing to the cliff viewing area.  From here we had stunning views along the impressively steep cliff faces that dropped 140m vertically straight down to the sea below. 

Returning to the Karetai Track we continued up the constant slope of the hill for about 1km to the Karetai Road where we stopped for a snack and drink in the cool shade of some large trees.  After this much needed rest the next part of our journey saw us follow the road, climbing to 300m above sea level before reaching the junction of Highcliff Road.  The Karetai Road is a little used sealed road and we had ample opportunity to stop and admire the views overlooking the green farmland  with the city and coastline stretched out behind.

Highcliff Road is a much busier road and with no footpath on either side, we stuck to single file, keeping well the side to avoid getting in the way of traffic.  We followed the road for 2km to the Soldiers Monument and Peg 41 track. During the walk along Highcliff Road, we were spoilt for choice with views and with such a beautiful day we did not want to rush.

Regrouping before the short but steep 60m climb from Highcliff Road to the Soldiers Monument, it was a complete contrast to the last time we had been here about a month ago for trip#48 Last time the wind had been so strong that we could barely stand at the monument where as today it was calm, with not a breath of wind.  We enjoyed the stunning views of the harbour from such a great viewpoint. 

The rest of the trip was an easy wander down the Peg 41 track, hugging the fence line most of the way down the hill we negotiated a paddock with cows, another with gorse and finally an empty paddock with the final stretch though a small patch of native bush bordering the Tomahawk Lagoon. The colours of the setting sun were reflected in the calm waters of the lagoon where the resident ducks and swans were settling down for the night. 

After the lagoon, it's about a 1.5km road walk back to Smaills Beach and the cars.  As time was getting on towards 5pm with the sun starting to set it was decided that the time for a swim was past and everyone was happy to climb in the car for a ride home.  It was a very pleasant afternoon walk of 12.3km over a leisurely 3 hours 45 minutes

#32 of 100 trips for 100 years - OTMC Picnic Long Beach 12 February 2023

This one isn't really a tramping trip but it is a numbered trip so qualifies for a trip report.  Traditionally a club picnic was on the day after the OTMC marathon and was a good way for those involved to relax and recuperate.  In recovery mode from walking  the Silver Peaks half marathon yesterday, I was looking forward to a day in the sun at the beach.  The walk along the beach was relaxing and we stopped for a brief look at the rock climbers before making our way to the end of the beach near the caves.  There was a sea lion who had taken up residence in the shade so we kept our distance and set up chairs and picnic blankets near the dunes.

The weather was perfect for the beach with sunshine and no wind so the 14 of us were able to sit and happily chat before some of the group headed into the water for a swim while others enjoyed a paddle or explored the caves.

We watched the antics of another sea lion further down the beach lounging in the shallows before making it's way into the deeper waves.  Around mid afternoon people started packing up their picnic and headed back to the cars which left only a few of us to enjoy one last swim/paddle before walking back along the almost deserted beach.

#27 of 100 trips for 100 years - Blackhead to Brighton via Green Island Beach 28 January 2023

 

Despite heavy rain further north, the day in Dunedin was warm and sunny with only a light breeze which was a good sign for a walk along Green Island Beach.  We arrived at Blackhead to a full carpark and waves crashing onto the sand making it easy to see why this is a popular surfing beach.  The cliffs of Blackhead are basalt columns similar to those we had seen at the Organ Pipes last weekend and the Pyramids two weekends ago.  The Blackhead headland of basalt columns juts out into the sea and there are some interesting rock formations that can accessed by scrambling around the base at very low tide.

Today, though, our mission was to walk along the beach from Blackhead to Brighton and with one and a half hours to low tide there was plenty of beach for the 9 of us to walk along.  The walk of 7km each way was very pleasant in the sun and with a tail wind on the journey to Brighton making for an enjoyable walk where  we saw a sea lion and only a handful of people walking their dogs.  The dogs looked to be having a lot of fun chasing balls and sticks in the water. We passed the Waldronville estuary without even noticing as there was no water flowing down the estuary. 

The further we walked down the beach the more sand was exposed by the retreating tide and there was plenty of opportunity to walk with different people which made the 1.5 hour walk to Brighton pass quickly.  

Once we reached the end of the beach, we found a large rock to sit and replenish the energy with a drink and some snacks in the sun while we contemplated the walk back.  We were all a bit jealous of Laurence and his cinnamon scroll but he wasn't keen to share so we contented ourselves with our own horde of lollies.

The second part of our journey was the return to Blackhead, however this time we had the wind in our faces.  This made for some lovely patterns in the blowing sand and with the tide out we looked to have a massive beach all to ourselves.  The bulk of Blackhead kept beckoning us on and before we knew it, we had passed the Waldronville estuary again and were back in amongst the dog walkers again. 

Once at Blackhead, it was a final scramble over the rocks and up to the cars.  The beautiful weather meant this had been an enjoyable 14km beach walk with great company. 

#24 of 100 trips for 100 years - Victory Beach and Pyramids 15 January 2023 (by Jade Pettinger)

17 of us assembled at the Clubrooms on Sunday morning, all of us keen to make the most of another beautiful summer day and explore Victory Beach. We quickly sorted ourselves into cars and headed down the harbour towards Portobello, admiring the stunning views our city has to offer. Before long we had arrived at our destination! Piling out of the cars we applied sunblock, donned sunhats and tied shoelaces ready to go.

It was just over a kilometre from the carpark to the pyramids, traversing some paddocks on a 4wd track. The track was flat and in a straight line and would have made for a dull walk if it were not for the delightful company. Arriving at the pyramids, it was time for a team photo before heading off to explore the cave at the bottom of the small pyramid. The cave was interesting as we could see clear examples of columnar basalt, the same type of rock as the Organ Pipes.

After consulting with our leader Alan, it was decided that we would take the scenic way to the beach. The loop around the reserve is a bit of a self-guided tour, with numbered markers along the way which tell you some information about the area. We enjoyed learning some facts and observing the work that has been done by the Yellow Eyed Penguin Trust to create a safe habitat for these endangered wildlife. A highlight was seeing some trees that Jade had helped plant at school in 2004, nearly 20 years ago!

After close to an hour of exploring the reserve underneath the beating hot sun, we arrived at the edge of the sand dunes. Making our way down to Victory Beach, we were delighted to see we had the beach to ourselves (minus a few sea lions). The beach was absolutely stunning - crystal clear water that sparkled in the sun and a wide expanse of white sand as far as the eye could see. Some of us took the opportunity to shed our shoes and feel the cool water swirling over our toes, providing some much needed refreshment.

We began our trek to the south end of the beach, keeping our distance from the sea lions dotted around the shoreline sunbathing. One sea lion was a bit curious and came over to see what we were up to, forcing us to make a hasty retreat before he settled down again and we could continue on our mission.

Near the south end of the beach we spotted the remains of the SS Victory, which ran aground in 1861, en route from Port Chalmers to Melbourne. Fortunately no lives were lost due to the proximity of the beach, however as the ship was embedded in 6-7 feet of sand it was unable to be salvaged and thus became the namesake of Victory Beach.

Rounding the end of the beach we reached Papanui Inlet and were pleased to find a sheltered spot out of the wind for lunch. Just as we were settling in, an inquisitive sea lion was spotted playing in the calm waters of the inlet before popping up to have a look at us. Upon deciding we weren’t a threat, the sea lion plopped back in the water and continued his play time - not a bad idea on such a hot day!

Lunch was quickly consumed before we packed up and made our way alongside the inlet, keeping a careful eye on the playful sea lion in case he decided to make another appearance. All was well and we plugged our way through ankle deep sand, admiring the expansive views of Papanui Inlet, Mt. Charles, Harbour Cone and even all the way across the city to Mt. Cargill.

We soon arrived at a farm track, relieved to be trading in the soft sand and the relentless sun for firm ground and some shade provided by the trees. The track was dotted with sheep huddling under any shade they could find. Arriving at the road, we geared ourselves up for the final kilometre or so along the dusty gravel road back to the cars. 

by Jade Pettinger

#16 of 100 trips for 100 years - Tunnel Beach 8 December 2022 (by Jade Pettinger)

 

This day trip was in place of a club Thursday night talk and is part of the 100 trips because the third weekend of the Otago Tramping Club in 1923 included two trips from the St Clair tram terminus to Blackhead via Cargill’s Castle. Similar trips appeared sporadically through the trip programme up until 1983, but urbanisation and more private owners of the land now make the original trip impossible and hence this trip was added to the 100 trip list.  

Being a windy evening and with the threat of rain, it was very heartening to see 19 people turn up at 6pm for the 1km wander 150m down the hill to Tunnel Beach. It was a reasonably fast walk down with a short stop for a team photo.

 The magnificent sculptured sandstone cliffs and arches provide a stunning backdrop for the turbulent waves that slam into the cliffs.  It's an impressive place to be to see how ferociously the waves are thrust into any small crevices in the rock, creating a larger crack which eventually breaks off from the main cliff.  There was plenty of evidence of the power of the water with large slabs of sandstone littering the base of the cliffs and  billowing plumes of water crashing into the rugged cliff face.

Turning our attention away from the surging sea we descended the 72 steps down the hand carved tunnel that gives Tunnel Beach it's name.  The tunnel was commissioned by a local politician, John Cargill  in the 1870's for his family to access their own secluded beach near the family home of Cargills Castle.  The tunnel is sloped and steep but easy to navigate and at the bottom we were rewarded by being able to see up close some of the large sandstone boulders that had fallen from the surrounding craggy cliffs. The boulders are a variety of  shapes and sizes with most being easy to clamber up onto. 

The tide was on it's way out so more sand was slowly being exposed and if you were quick, you were able to run around a small headland to a sheltered cave without getting wet.  A few people were not quite as quick as they should have been and ended up with wet feet. The cave is also a favourite overnight retreat for sea lions and some of our group were lucky to see one come surfing into the safety of the cave. 

All too soon it was time to retrace our steps back up through the tunnel and then continue following the track up the hill.  The climb up the hill was much slower than the descent but we all made good time, with only the occasional short rest and arrived at the cars about 1 hour after leaving.  

Written by Jade Pettinger