#57 of 100 trips for 100 years - Buskin - Boulder Beach - Paradise Track 20 May 2023 (by Jade Pettinger)

 

I guess a rainy trip was bound to happen one day, in fact I think we have all been surprised that 56 trips have been completed with good weather so far. Waking up to the gentle pattering of rain on the roof I knew our luck had run out, and so ensued the mental battle of “do I roll over, snuggle into my warm bed and go back to sleep OR do I drag myself out of bed, don my wet weather gear and go tramping?”. Obviously tramping was the winner, so despite the misty rain I headed to the designated meeting point, curious to see if any other OTMCers were crazy enough to join me.

Surprisingly by 9am there were seven of us huddled outside the clubrooms, which was six more people than I was expecting. We set off for Highcliff Road in good spirits, however these were soon dampened by the dense mist and relentless rain which only seemed to get thicker the closer we got to our destination. By the time we had disembarked the vehicles and got our gear sorted we were already a wet soggy mess.

The first kilometre or so of our walk took us along Highcliff Road to the start of the Buskin Track, which normally would give us panoramic views over the coast above Boulder Beach. However this was not the case today, instead we had our heads down battling through the stinging rain which felt like ice cold bullets hitting our exposed legs. We made record time along this section of road, reaching our destination in just over 10 minutes, motivated by the prospect of dropping down out of the wind and pelting rain.

This was one of those trips where those of us who need glasses were at a disadvantage, as it was impossible to see through wet, fogged up glasses yet equally impossible to see without them. Whoever invents window wipers for glasses will make a killing…

You certainly needed good eyesight as the first section of the Buskin Track descends over some deceivingly uneven terrain, which coupled with long wet grass created quite the hazard. As we lost height, the cloud started to clear (or maybe we were just dropping out of the cloud) and the views started to open up. Boulder Beach stretched out in the distance, surrounded by the rolling hills of the neighbouring farmland.

The track we were following through farmland soon changed as we reached a small cluster of trees. We traded long grass for a boggy track with slippery planks of wood to help us over the worst of it. This was no obstacle for the mighty OTMC so we quickly skipped our way across with no mishaps.

Our respite from the rain under the tall pine trees was short lived as we were soon back out in the open, with the beach much closer and the terrain flattening out. From here was a short meander to a private cottage which marked the crossroads between the Buskin Track, the Paradise track and the short route to Boulder Beach. As the rain was holding off, we opted to take the short detour to Boulder Beach, which wasn’t as straightforward as one would have thought.

There was no marked route onto the beach, but thankfully there was a track worn in by the multitudes of people who are sure to visit this remote beach each year. Some parts of this track involved pushing our way through thick, head high flax - if we weren’t wet before we were absolutely soaked now. We had to watch our footing as there were troublesome vines hiding in the undergrowth which could easily trip you up if you unknowingly got your foot caught in one, which more than one of us did.

In order to stand on the sand of the beach, we had to slip and slide our way over the slippery boulders (more like rocks) that bordered the sand dunes, giving Boulder Beach its name. Once on the beach some of us went for a wee wander along the water's edge to see if any wildlife could be spotted while others took the opportunity to have a snack and drink. Although it wasn’t raining on the beach, the wind was certainly chilly and we were mindful of the fact the weather was forecast to worsen in the afternoon so we hastily set off again.

Unfortunately we had made a mistake in our excitement to reach the beach and did not take notice of where exactly we had exited the sand dunes onto the beach. However, it only took a short while of wandering around the dunes before we found the track we had followed and thankfully none of us stumbled onto any sleeping sea lions! It was another quick stop in the shelter of the trees at the crossroads to re-energise ourselves before the climb up to Highcliff Road.

While the Buskin Track seemed to snake its way around the hills, the Paradise track took us straight up along the edge of some paddocks. Maybe it was the steeper terrain but the track up certainly seemed to be muddier, which made me glad we didn’t descend this way as it would have turned into a bit of a slip n slide in places.

Before long we left the coastal views behind as we ascended back up into the cloud, which surprisingly was quite dry. We were all pretty soaked by this point so perhaps it was the thought of a warm shower and dry clothes that helped us to make good time up the hill - 30 minutes from the crossroads to Highcliff Road, not bad for close to 300m of elevation gain! 

Maybe it was wishful thinking, but the rain seemed to intensify once we were safely back in the vehicles heading for home. The loop took us 2 ½ hours to complete, including stops with 6.7km traveled.

by Jade Pettinger

#56 of 100 trips for 100 years - McNally Track 14 May 2023

 

Nine people keen to see the sights of the McNally Track weren't put off by the threatening rain or the ominous start of leaving from a cemetery. After climbing over a stile and heading up through farm paddocks, the slope is reasonably gentle for the first 100m of climbing.  Following the markers, we hugged the fence line and scared only a few sheep to the other side of the paddock.   With lush green grass, the ground was dry underfoot and we made good time, passing through a number of gates along the way. 

After a half hour of this easy travel, we crossed through a gate and onto a four wheel drive track for a short distance before we needed to make our first decision of the trip. There are a couple of loops on the McNally Track and as we reached the first loop track, we opted to take the 'high route' which took us up a short, steep incline to a great view overlooking the township of Milton and the surrounding countryside.

We continued climbing up the hill, sticking close to the fence to dodge all the small pine trees that have recently been planted on the farm land.  It is disappointing to see how much of the surrounding farmland has now been converted to forestry as in a few years the views that we were enjoying will be hidden behind the trees.

At about the halfway point we came to our second loop track and our second decision of which way to go. The decision was to continue up the hill and take the nature walk through the bush.  This involved following the fence line until crossing a stile over the fence and into a stand of native bush.  The well benched track through the bush traverses the contour line where we were followed by a friendly piwakawaka who flitted along beside us, darting in and out catching the bugs that we stirred up as we passed.  After emerging from the native bush, it is a short but steep climb up the final 100m to reach the hill top where we were rewarded with views encompassing the Taieri plains, Tokomariro River and inland to the Blue Mountains. 

It was here that we made the unanimous decision for an early lunch so that we could take our time to admire the fantastic views that stretched out in front of us.  The only downside to this idyllic spot are the pine trees that have been planted to just below the summit of the hill, meaning that these wonderful views will be gone in a few years time.

From this great vantage point we could see storm clouds gathering to the south so we wasted no time in packing up after lunch and heading down the hill back to the cars.  We took the main track, down through the paddocks that are now full of small pine trees and were able to enjoy the views as we descended 140m  steeply down the ridge. 

We met up with the track again at the junction to the bush walk and once we had regrouped, we continued down the hill.  Unfortunately we weren't quite fast enough as the rain caught us about halfway down and we sheltered under some trees to don parkas before continuing down the lush green farm paddocks, scaling the stiles as we went.  As we reached the final fence and the cars were within sight, the light rain eased off and we made it back to the cemetery in good spirits.  A shorter trip of only 8.1km and 300m of climbing that took us around 3 hours. 

#54 of 100 trips for 100 years - Nardoo Scientific Reserve (Nardoo 13) 7 May 2023 (by Jade Pettinger)

Nardoo is an area which has haunted the OTMC for many years as, out of 12 planned trips to the scientific reserve, not many were actually successful and there was always a reason - the weather was poor, high winds etc. Today was lucky number 13… and it was lucky! The summit was not only reached, it was done so in perfect conditions and on a day that felt more like summer than 3 weeks away from the official start of winter.

Despite the early start, 19 enthusiastic trampers were gathered outside the clubrooms at 8am on Sunday morning while the plan for the day was agreed upon. Piling into the cars, we set off in convoy for Nardoo - heading via Outram, Lee Stream and Lake Mahinerangi. Descending into Mosgiel we were greeted by the thick layer of morning fog for which the Taieri Plains are famous for. This wasn’t ideal and we anxiously peered out of our windows, desperately searching for glimpses of the sun and crossing our fingers and toes that it would burn off before long.

Thankfully as we got closer to our destination the fog was burning off and the landscape around us was opening up to reveal clear blue skies and miles upon miles of tussock on the surrounding hills. The landscape was not the only thing changing however - the road changed from a highway to a narrow windy tarseal road to gravel to a slightly less maintained gravel road to a farm track with hollows big enough to swallow a car. We were not going to let this stop us and after passing through some farm gates we soon found ourselves parking in a nondescript paddock. 

Instead of the usual pre-trip briefing, our leader, Antony Hamel, gave us a crash course in flag semaphore. We were relieved there were no bulls in the paddock, as surely our eager flag waving would have sent the wrong message and we would have accidentally recreated the Pamplona Bull Run. Once our leader was satisfied we were well trained and equipped to use our flags to communicate vital information to our fellow trampers - think “my hovercraft is full of eels” - we set off.

After battling through near head-high tussock to reach the DOC sign that marks the beginning of the reserve, it soon became apparent that the theme of the day was going to be long tussock with no track. Well, everyone else was grumbling about no track… being at the back of a line of 19 people I couldn’t work out what the problem was! One thing about tussock walking is it can be incredibly uneven and slippery, especially as the large clumps of grass were well above waist high in places which meant seeing exactly where you were putting your feet was impossible!

Being so focused on staying upright, we were shocked when we stopped for a breather and turned around to see how quickly we had gained height without even realising it. The view was just opening up in front of us, with Lake Mahinerangi as the centre piece, sparkling in the morning sun. Turning our backs to the view, we continued plodding upwards, knowing the view would only get better the higher we climbed.

The group was starting to spread out now and were no longer walking in a line, which meant I was now starting to understand what they meant when they said there was no track - there was NO track! It was very much a ‘follow the path of least resistance’ endeavour, which thankfully was straight forward enough and I soon found myself joining the others for a much needed morning tea break.

On a previous trip, another member commented to me “you don’t get a lot of time to eat on these OTMC trips!”, which is true as I barely had time to sit down and open my lunch box before we were packing up again! Grabbing a handful of crackers to nibble on as we walked, I hurriedly followed as I had learnt my lesson to stick with the group so I could follow in their footsteps rather than find my own way through the tussock.

We were now heading to a group of large rock tors on the skyline, and although the climb was steady, it didn’t prove too difficult. Our only obstacle was a band of spaniards and more than one of us fell victim to the prickly plants hiding beneath the tussock. We were so engaged in our various conversations that in what felt like no time at all, we had arrived at the base of a ginormous rock.

Turning around to face the view - wow! The golden tussock contrasted perfectly with the deep blue sky, a true representation of Otago’s blue and gold colours. In front of us were miles and miles of rolling hills, from the tussock covered hills of the Te Papanui Conservation Park to the dark green native bush of Manguatua in the distance.

Lake Mahinerangi sat proudly in the middle, all of us marveling at how much larger it was than we had thought driving past earlier this morning.  Lunch was had with all 19 of us perched on a rock - yes that's how big the rocks were! As it was the day after the Coronation, it was only right that we toasted the King, as well as each of the past 12 trips to the area. Finally, our flags came to good use!

Those who had been to the area before were in awe of the weather conditions - not a breath of wind and close to 20°c. This is apparently very unusual for the area, and unsurprisingly no one seemed super keen to rush back down the hill. After lunch, we spent some time exploring the area. Some chose to keep heading up to the highest point while the majority of us decided to explore the rock tors.

After having a good look around, and taking the classic Instagram picture - a person on a rock with a gorgeous view behind them - we sadly had to begin our descent. Somehow the descent proved much trickier than the ascent as any semblance we had of a track on the way up was nowhere to be found!

One rock stood out in particular - Walrus Rock. I’m not quite sure why it’s named that as it didn’t look like a walrus to me but it certainly is magnificent. It was a large arch-shaped rock, with a small tarn in the middle of it. The day was so calm and still, which meant the reflections in the tarn were simply stunning. We all took turns getting creative and taking photos of one another through the arch while some of the more adventurous among us climbed up on top of the rock.

After many tumbles, cries of pain from unexpected spaniard attacks and nearly dislocating hips from the long strides needed to navigate over the tussock, we arrived at the bottom of the hill - Nardoo had been Nardone! 

by Jade Pettinger

#53 of 100 trips for 100 years - Smaills Beach - Karetai Track 6 May 2023

 

Like the first time the OTC undertook this trip in May 1930, we gathered at 1pm on Saturday afternoon. With clear, blue skies and the thermometre reaching 20+ degrees, it wasn't surprising that 18 people turned up for the walk.   We gathered at the Smaills Beach carpark and headed across the sand dunes to the beach.  With quite a number of sunbathers and a few surfers bobbing on the waves, there was talk of a swim after the walk but first we had 300m to climb from Smaills Beach to Highcliff Road. A small number of the group opted to take the Karetai Track while the majority took the more adventurous route from the beach, around the cliff edge to Maori Head. 

As we climbed away from the beach, the views really started to open out behind us.  We had an excellent vantage point to see the surfers on Smaills Beach attempting to catch a wave and further back to Lawyers Head with the hills of St Clair and Saddle Hill behind.  The views down the coast extended as far south as Taieri Mouth thanks to the perfect weather.  Despite the easy walking, there were plenty of stops to drink in the outstanding views often followed by the comment that we are so lucky to live in such a beautiful part of the country and with so many great walking opportunities so close to the city. Dunedin had certainly turned on another 'Dunner Stunner' day.

From Maori Head we skirted around the cliff edge to join the Karetai Track at Pudneys Cliff where we took a small detour below the sheer rock buttresses to the cliff viewing area.  I wouldn't recommend the detour to Pudneys Cliff during windy or wet conditions as the track is narrow and slippery but as the sun was shinning and the temperatures in the early 20C's we had no hesitation in venturing to the cliff viewing area.  From here we had stunning views along the impressively steep cliff faces that dropped 140m vertically straight down to the sea below. 

Returning to the Karetai Track we continued up the constant slope of the hill for about 1km to the Karetai Road where we stopped for a snack and drink in the cool shade of some large trees.  After this much needed rest the next part of our journey saw us follow the road, climbing to 300m above sea level before reaching the junction of Highcliff Road.  The Karetai Road is a little used sealed road and we had ample opportunity to stop and admire the views overlooking the green farmland  with the city and coastline stretched out behind.

Highcliff Road is a much busier road and with no footpath on either side, we stuck to single file, keeping well the side to avoid getting in the way of traffic.  We followed the road for 2km to the Soldiers Monument and Peg 41 track. During the walk along Highcliff Road, we were spoilt for choice with views and with such a beautiful day we did not want to rush.

Regrouping before the short but steep 60m climb from Highcliff Road to the Soldiers Monument, it was a complete contrast to the last time we had been here about a month ago for trip#48 Last time the wind had been so strong that we could barely stand at the monument where as today it was calm, with not a breath of wind.  We enjoyed the stunning views of the harbour from such a great viewpoint. 

The rest of the trip was an easy wander down the Peg 41 track, hugging the fence line most of the way down the hill we negotiated a paddock with cows, another with gorse and finally an empty paddock with the final stretch though a small patch of native bush bordering the Tomahawk Lagoon. The colours of the setting sun were reflected in the calm waters of the lagoon where the resident ducks and swans were settling down for the night. 

After the lagoon, it's about a 1.5km road walk back to Smaills Beach and the cars.  As time was getting on towards 5pm with the sun starting to set it was decided that the time for a swim was past and everyone was happy to climb in the car for a ride home.  It was a very pleasant afternoon walk of 12.3km over a leisurely 3 hours 45 minutes

#52 of 100 trips for 100 years - Rongomai/Honeycomb Tracks Circuit 30 April 2023

 

The OTMC has been using the Rongomai Track since the 1950's and the more recent Honeycomb track since 1980. As both of these tracks head from Carey's Creek to Mountain Road, they make an ideal loop and completing the loop was the aim of today's day trip.  We had followed Careys Creek in January and today we started at the end point of that trip, Evansdale Glen.  The Glen is a lovely, grassy picnic area with a couple of walking tracks for those wanting to explore further.  Unfortunately for us, the start of the Carey's Creek walking track is on the other side of the creek and so it was wet feet right at the start for some of the 14 people on the trip.

The first 3-4km is a charming walk along the side of Carey's Creek with views of the slow flowing creek.  There are a couple of creek crossings so those that kept dry feet at the start soon joined those who had wet feet.  Being in the valley, it was cold but the pace was brisk and we started to warm up.  Stopping in the sun by the Rongomai track to regroup, we took this opportunity for a snack and drink stop

We continued along the track beside Carey's Creek, sloshing through the mud and crossing the creek a number of times so that even the few who had managed to keep their feet dry this far, didn't have dry feet by the time we reached the Honeycomb track about 40 minutes past the Rongomai turn off.  There is nothing easy about the Honeycomb Track as it is straight up, using both hands and feet to gain the ridge about 180m above the creek.  Recent rain had made the track slippery in places so we were grateful to be going up as coming down would have been more of a mud slide.  Taking our time, we all reached the ridge where the trees had thinned and we were rewarded with glimpses of the Carey's Creek area.

After another half hour of walking along the ridge we reached the junction of the 'nature walk' which is about a kilometre of sidling around the contour to join up with the Rongomai Track.  As there is a large flat area at the junction we decided that this was a good spot for lunch.  Everyone found a comfortable place to sit and enjoyed chatting while we ate.  After lunch we followed the nature walk which I had never been on and found it a very pleasant alternative to continuing climbing another100m up the Honeycomb Track before joining the Rongomai Track at the top of the ridge.  The nature walk involved a bit more up and down than I realised and included a short but steep down climb into a creek using a rope along with negotiating some tree fall over the track. The nature walk joins the Rongomai track on the edge of the pine planation. 

The next part of the track involves descending 200m down the sharply defined ridge to Careys Creek.  We had been down here before on trip #18 and trip #26 and like those previous trips down this ridge, we made good use of the well placed trees to help slow, an otherwise fast descent to the creek at the bottom.  The final leg of the trip involves retracing our steps along the side of Carey's Creek and back through the creek crossings so if your feet had started to dry out, they were well and truly wet again by the time we reached the car park completing the 12.8km trip over 5.5 hours.