#35 of 100 trips for 100 years - Mt Charles 4 March 2023 (by Jade Pettinger)

Today’s trip to Mt Charles/Poatiri had been highly anticipated and I was thrilled to see the weather forecast improve over the week. Mt Charles is the highest point on the Otago Peninsula at 408m but can only be accessed by crossing private land. Thankfully a friendly landowner granted access to the OTMC for this trip so 10 of us gathered at the club rooms ready to “knock the bastard off”!

Arriving at Papanui Inlet we were all exclaiming that despite being the highest point on the peninsula, it really didn’t look too steep… boy were we wrong! We started heading up a gravel farm road which started out as a gentle climb but somehow kept getting steeper and steeper. Barely 15 minutes in and we had already gained 100 metres in height! The lungs were certainly feeling it but the view provided us with plenty of reason to stop and catch our breath.

Before long we were crossing the halfway point, which also signalled a change from gravel farm roads to paddocks. Mt Charles towered above us as we had a quick drink and stripped off layers, however we were pleased to see there was a zig-zag track to the top so we didn’t have to scramble straight up the side. While we still had another 200m to climb, the terrain wasn’t as steep and we made good time towards the top.We reached a small flat area just below the summit just as the cloud was beginning to roll in.

The views were fantastic, especially looking down over Victory Beach which we visited on trip #024 to Victory Beach and the Pyramids in January. A quick break to snap a few pictures and devour a square or two of chocolate was taken. Hastily we set off in an attempt to beat the worst of the weather to the summit to avoid a repeat of the 2020 trip to Mt Charles, where the only view they saw was of the inside of a cloud.

Waterproof layers were quickly donned by most of the party as we picked our way up to the rocky outcrop and trig that marked the summit of Mt Charles. The rain and cloud had well and truly arrived so after a quick team photo we retreated to a small cluster of trees which reminded us of a fairy grotto. It was fairly sheltered here so we enjoyed an early lunch break whilst keeping our fingers crossed that the weather would clear before we headed back down.

Emerging from our fairy grotto we were delighted to see the clouds had rolled away and the view had opened up again. The panoramic views in all directions were breath-taking - from the inlets and sandy beaches of the peninsula to the distant hills of the northern skyline. The wind was fierce and a little chilly as we began our descent back down to sea level.  A mixture of the recent rain and the steepness of the terrain made the descent a little slippery in places. We were pretty chuffed to arrive back at the cars in just under 3 hours, having successfully summited the highest point on the Otago Peninsula. 

by Jade Pettinger

#34 of 100 trips for 100 years - Milford Track 23-26 February 2023

The Milford Track was established in 1888 as a route between Lake Te Anau and Milford Sound and until 1959,  the only way to and from Milford Sound was to walk both ways along the track.  Named as 'the finest walk in the world', the Milford track was only accessible by paying for a guided walk until 1965 when the Otago Tramping Club refused to accept that only those who could pay were able to walk the Milford Track and a group of 40 people from the tramping club staged a protest or 'freedom' walk along the track.  It was this freedom walk that opened the track up to non-guided walkers.  As part of the Otago Tramping & Mountaineering Club's centenary project of 100 trips for 100 years it is appropriate that a group of 40 club members walked the Milford Track again.  

The dates had been chosen 2 years earlier and it was with pleasure that the group of 40 club members, ranging in age from mid 20's to almost 80 boarded the ferry at Te Anau Downs in good weather to take us to the start of the Milford Track.  The boat ride across the calm lake took around an hour and we were able to stand on the top deck and admire the mountains and fjords of the lake.  The boat passed the Quinton MacKinnon memorial cross on a small rocky island in the lake which has been erected near where MacKinnon's boat was found after he went missing in 1892.  Anticipation built as we neared the head of the lake and our journey on the Milford Track. 

Once we docked at the start of the track and collected our packs, we began  the first day's walk of one and half hours to Clinton Hut.  The first 10 minutes is along a track wide enough for a four wheeler until we reached Glade House which is the first hut for the guided walkers.  In 1928 the Otago Tramping Club walked the Milford Track and were present when the first Glade House was accidentally burnt down.  Today Glade House is situated in a sunny clearing and has magnificent views of the surrounding mountains.  We didn't have time to investigate further as we lined up to cross a large swing bridge over the stunningly clear green waters of the Clinton River

This first day saw us wandering along beside the Clinton River which is so clear that you can see the bottom no matter how deep and is an unbelievable green colour.  The track is flat and easy to walk with lots of glimpses of the river and mountains.  One highlight for me was stopping at a clearing with a good view of Dore Pass which is where I had come over to walk the Milford Track in 1988.

We took the short detour to the wetlands with wonderful red and orange mosses surrounding small shrubs which give the opportunity to appreciate the sheer sided mountains that enclose the Clinton River on both sides.  Not far from the wetlands is our first hut, Clinton Hut which has bunks for 40 people and a large kitchen area.  We found a bunk for the night and went for a short walk to a lovely swimming hole not far from the hut.  It was a brief swim for those brave enough to enter the cold water and show some skin to the hungry sandflies but the views from the rivers edge are simply stunning.

Back at the hut we had tea and snuggled down for the night before an early rise in the morning for a 16km walk to Mintaro Hut. The track starts reasonably flat through the beautiful native beech forest dripping with moss which soaks up the rainfall in this, the wettest place on the planet but for us today, it was sunny and very dry making for good walking.  Every few 100 metres or so is a glimpse of the clear green Clinton River and after a couple of short detours to viewing areas we emerged from the bush into the open valley.

From here the track became more interesting as we took all the side trips available.  This included the 10 minute detour to Hidden Lake which isn't really hidden because of the sign pointing the way.  With mirror like reflections in the calm lake we marveled at the sheer steepness of the valley sides and we discovered the only downside to having such fantastic weather is that there are no waterfalls.  We all agreed though, that no waterfalls is a small price to pay for having beautiful blue skies.  Another side trip was to Prairie Lake which was even lovelier than Hidden Lake, and that included the insect hidden in the cliff face (can you see it?)

We stopped for lunch at the Prairie where we met up with others from our group along with being discovered by the sandflies again.  After the Prairie the track begins a steady climb towards Mintaro Hut  with some sections requiring a rocky scramble while all around us, we were dwarfed by the rocky mountains and outcrops.

As we neared Mintaro Hut we started to get a closer look at tomorrow's obstacle, Omanui/MacKinnon Pass. Despite having done half the climbing to the pass already, it was still a daunting sight but our hopes were high for another cloudless day with stunning views.

With 20 minutes to the hut, the track starts to level off and we were able to pick up the pace a little. Arriving at the hut, we were greeted by three beautifully carved pouwhenua before climbing the stairs and finding our bed for the night.  This is the new Mintaro Hut, opened only last year and is in a much better spot than the old hut. After dinner, we had a fun night with much hilarity when put into teams for a tramping related quiz night. Some teams did really well in the quiz, while others lack of knowledge was highlighted. 

Knowing that the day going over Omanui/MacKinnon Pass was going to be the toughest day of the trip, we were up early and walking by 7.30am.  The track up the pass zig zags it's way up, what from a distance, looks like a sheer rock face but in reality is a nicely graded track with the odd steep, rocky section.  As we gained height, the trees started to become more stunted until we were out into the alpine tussock.  We were lucky to come across a family of kea feeding their young on the track.

After an hour and half of steady climbing we came out on top of the pass to magnificent views on both sides.  We rested for a few minutes by the MacKinnon memorial before exploring the area a little further.  We felt privileged to be in this special spot on such a beautiful day, especially when considering that often the views are obscured by cloud as more than 9 metres of rain falls each year. We spent longer on the top of Omanui/MacKinnon Pass than we should have but we just couldn't drag ourselves away. 

We were mesmerized by the many small tarns, surrounded by golden tussock on the pass with the reflections of the sheer rocky mountains on the dark watery surface. The view around each corner or knob we climbed over was breath takingly stunning.  Eventually though, we couldn't delay any longer and we carried on to the pass shelter then started the 1000m descent down the other side.

The descent to Dumpling Hut is hard on the knees as it is mostly an alpine sidle over a rocky track then a  scramble down over tree roots as bush line is reached.  We found a sheltered spot beside a side creek for lunch which gave us cold fresh water.  During lunch we spent our time admiring the views and looking back towards Omanui/MacKinnon Pass which looked almost vertical from this side.  

In the bush the track continued it's steep, knee jerking descent but with some nicely placed steps that took us close to the Roaring Burn which tumbled it's way down a number of waterfalls and rock faces. This was a nice distraction from the concentration needed for feet placement amongst the rocks and tree roots as we quickly lost height through the forest. The Roaring Burn is well named as it thundered beside us on and gave us the opportunity to rest and watch the water cascading down. After a couple of hours of knee jerking descent we rounded a corner to find we had made it almost to the bottom and there was the turn off to Sutherland Falls which is the highest waterfall in Australasia and the fifth highest waterfall in the world. 

The side trip to Sutherland Falls is a 1.5 hour return walk over a small hill which is tough on already tired legs but it is also a must do so we left our packs and made the trek to the base of the falls. The sheer power of the water hitting the plunge pool at the bottom of the falls is unbelievable.  A few hardy souls had braved the frigid waters to go for a swim while others donned their rain jackets to head behind the falls and it was fascinating to see how small they looked against the amount of water coming down the falls.

By now we were starting to feel tired and we still had a few hours of walking ahead of us so we didn't spend as long as we would have liked at Sutherland Falls and reluctantly we turned our backs to head back to where we had left our packs.  Once back at our packs we had an hours walk to Dumpling Hut which was a sight for sore eyes as we had been on our feet walking for 11 hours.  We found a bunk for the night and had a quick meal before thankfully rolling into our sleeping bags and were quickly asleep. The track from Dumpling Hut to Sandfly Point is reasonably flat and easy walking compared to the day before.  We made good time, leaving the hut at 7am and walking to our first stop at the Boat Shed.  This is where the first OTC group in 1965 had to cross a swollen river in flood but today there is a lovely big bridge across the wide, slow moving Arthur River for us to cross.

From the bridge we move away from the Arthur River and wind our way through the bush to the MacKay Falls and Bell Rock which is an enormous boulder that has been  hollowed out over time by the power of water and then turned upside down.  The hollowed out centre of Bell Rock is big enough to  comfortably hold 5 people (or 15 at a squash).

We were very aware of the time as our boat was leaving from Sandfly Point at 2pm and we didn't want to miss it so we only had time for a few photos and a quick snack at MacKay Falls before hitting the track again.  The track runs along side Lake Ada which is a large body of water formed by a landslide 900 years ago.  Today Lake Ada looked peaceful and serene with swans and ducks floating on the waters surface. As we neared Sandfly Point we stopped for a breather at Giants Gate Falls.

We met up with a group of day trippers at Giant Gate Falls and we envied them their light, day packs but we only had a few kilometres to go and time was ticking so on we went, counting the mile markers as we passed them. By the time we reached Sandfly Point, the feet were starting to feel tired but we were happy to have completed the 53.5 km journey before the boat arrived.

Without a sign of rain at all over the last four days, we felt priviledged to have spent time in such a beautiful part of  our country with a great group of people . 

#33 of 100 trips for 100 years - Rosella Ridge - River Track - Gold Miners Direct 19 February 2023

 

It promised to be another hot day but that didn't deter the 14 people who were keen for an up close look at Rosella Ridge in the Silver Peaks.  The pace was set early after leaving the cars and we made very good time along Green Ridge.  It helps that the track is so dry and in good condition which meant that we were able to walk and chat easily.  Each break in the trees was an opportunity for those of us (only two) for a short stop to reminisce about last weekend's Silver Peaks Half Marathon (#31/100 trips) that had seen us walking over this same track but in the opposite direction.  Everyone was feeling very warm by the time we reached Green Hut Site and were happy for a drink stop.

Feeling good after the break, it was straight uphill behind Green Hut Site to bushline where we were rewarded with views looking towards one of the high points in the Silver Peaks, Pulpit Rock.  The track climbs 160m from Green Hut Site to the turn off to Rosella Ridge.  The water gouged track is easy to follow up through the low growing scrub and it was during this part that we really started to notice the humidity. 

Some of the team opted to tackle the extra 100m climb to the top of Pulpit Rock while others of us (who had been there for lunch last weekend) chose to wait at the Rosella Ridge turnoff.  It was a nice half hour wait for the Pulpit Rock group to return and then the next section was down Rosella Ridge.  Rosella Ridge is an informal name which appeared in the 1980’s from a couple of club members who spotted a Rosella while walking on this ridge.  At the time it was erroneously referred to as ‘Parakeet Ridge’ until the late 1980's when it was changed to the more appropriate name of Rosella Ridge.

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Rosella Ridge is a long, defined ridge that has a number of 'bumps' with the track going up and over each bump.  The track is well maintained through the shoulder high scrub which offers some shade from the noon day sun. We reached the end 'bump' affectionately known by the informal name of 'Little Pulpit Rock' for a final rest and where we were able to look across to The Cat's Teeth on Rocky Ridge (trip #5/100trips). From this vantage point we were also able to take in 360 degree views of the Silver Peaks. 

Being a little early for lunch, we continued walking and entered the mature manuka and kanuka bush as it dropped gently at first 450m down to the Waikouaiti River where we would join the River Track.  The track down through the native bush is very pleasant with ferns and mossy undergrowth along a steeply sided ridge.  A piwakawaka/fantail followed us along the trail, enjoying the feast of microscopic bugs that we stirred up as we passed through.  Partway down the ridge we stopped for a lunch break, spread out along the track in the shade.  Once lunch was over, we were back on the track, passing a number of tracks that branch off down the sides of Rosella Ridge

By following Rosella Ridge all the way down to the Waikouaiti River we eventually met up with the River Track (#28/100 trips), We had last been on this track only a couple of weeks ago, however this time we were doing the track in reverse and it was surprising to see how much climbing the track does alongside the Waikouaiti River. 

We were feeling grateful to be in the bush as the heat and humidity was high.  It was also a relief to be beside the river as we were able to stop at the small side creeks and refill our nearly empty water bottles.  The cold water from the side creeks was refreshing and some of the group took the opportunity to dunk their hats in the cold water.  After  an hour walking along the River Track we reached the Goldminers Direct Track which is a steep 30 minute climb up a number of zig zags and steps to Mountain Road and the cars in 7 hours and 15km.

#32 of 100 trips for 100 years - OTMC Picnic Long Beach 12 February 2023

This one isn't really a tramping trip but it is a numbered trip so qualifies for a trip report.  Traditionally a club picnic was on the day after the OTMC marathon and was a good way for those involved to relax and recuperate.  In recovery mode from walking  the Silver Peaks half marathon yesterday, I was looking forward to a day in the sun at the beach.  The walk along the beach was relaxing and we stopped for a brief look at the rock climbers before making our way to the end of the beach near the caves.  There was a sea lion who had taken up residence in the shade so we kept our distance and set up chairs and picnic blankets near the dunes.

The weather was perfect for the beach with sunshine and no wind so the 14 of us were able to sit and happily chat before some of the group headed into the water for a swim while others enjoyed a paddle or explored the caves.

We watched the antics of another sea lion further down the beach lounging in the shallows before making it's way into the deeper waves.  Around mid afternoon people started packing up their picnic and headed back to the cars which left only a few of us to enjoy one last swim/paddle before walking back along the almost deserted beach.

#31 of 100 trips for 100 years - OTMC Silver Peaks Half Marathon 11 February 2023

Through the 1970's-2000's the OTMC Marathon has held legendary status for those wanting to test their fitness over the 60+km course through the Silver Peaks.  Nowadays part of the original course is not so easy to access as it goes through pine plantation and at nearly 40km long the half marathon is still a considerable challenge.  It was heartening to have eight people arrive for the 6am start of the Pineapple Track for what was sure to be a long and tiring day. 

The Pineapple Track climbs a steep 480m to the top of Flagstaff starting with native bush and eventually onto the tussock tops.  Starting in the dark through the bush and coming out into the tussock gave us a chance for a short stop to take in the sunrise and the beautiful coloured sky promising a warm day ahead. 

We didn't have time to linger for too long because we still had a long way to go.  Up the hill we went enjoying the sunrise and the wonderful cloud formations as we continued on to the top of Flagstaff.  It was here that we  stopped for a breather and drink at the top by the plane table.  A fitting place to stop with the plane table highlighting features on the city skyline, and was installed in 1973 by the OTMC after it's 50th anniversary and here we were, about to celebrate the 100th anniversary. 

By now the sun was up and with the first uphill section completed we were able to relax a little and regain our breath as we started downhill to the Bull Ring.  We regrouped at the Bull Ring before tackling the 6km road walk of Whare Flat Road  to Silver Stream which saw us drop 400m in height, effectively losing all the height we had gained. 

The road walk wasn't as bad as I had feared with the time passing quickly as we all took the opportunity to chat on this downhill section.  Being still early there was very little traffic on the gravel road and we were able to stop at the ford where one of our OTMC members, Trevor Mason, drowned while completing the OTMC marathon 15 years ago.  Unlike 15 years ago when the weather was atrocious and the river was rushing over the ford, today there was no water and we were able to cross with dry feet. A complete contrast to 15 years ago. 

Once at the bottom of the hill we climbed over the stile and walked alongside Silver Stream through the bush to the weir.  We crossed the weir before taking the track towards the Powder Hill turn off which is where the fun really began as the climb of 480m up Powder Hill is particularly steep and gnarly until the ridge is gained and the gradient eases off slightly.  Even though the upper part of the ridge is not as steep as lower down it continues to climb and fall as the track goes over a number of false summits before reaching the junction with Long Ridge. All the height we had gained climbing up Flagstaff, then losing as we headed downhill to Silver Stream, was gained again on Powder Ridge.  Stopping for another breather in the shade of the bush at the junction of Long Ridge we contemplated that we were half way through our journey and thankfully most of the climbing was behind us. The walk along Long Ridge is very pleasant as it follows the contour and is open grassy tops giving plenty of opportunity to take in the expansive views of the Silver Peaks and particularly our destination for lunch, Pulpit Rock.

The final push to Pulpit Rock involves a 120m climb which took us to a great place to sit and admire the views while having a well deserved lunch.  Despite there still being quite a distance to go, psychologically reaching Pulpit Rock was a big milestone in our journey as we could see our next obstacle, Swampy Summit which was the highest point of the half marathon and then not far behind, in the distance is Flagstaff and the end of our journey.  Knowing we still had a few hours of walking ahead of us, lunch was eaten reasonably quickly and we were off again. 

We dropped 120m down the ridge to Green Hut Site where we grabbed a few minutes for a drink and although feeling a little weary by now our spirits were high.  Green Hut Site is the site of the club's first hut built in 1933, 10 years after the club had started.  After a short break, we were off again, through the bush along Green Ridge.  At least this part of the track follows the contour so we were able to stretch our legs and make good time along the track.  Often the Green Ridge track can be muddy but with all the good weather of summer the track is very dry and hard underfoot. 

A stop at the turnoff to Swampy Summit was compulsory as we met up with our support person Jade who had walked in to meet us with a supply of water and lollies.  Gratefully we helped to relieve her of most of the weight in her pack as the water was greedily shared amongst us and the lollies were quickly devoured.  The next section of the journey involved another 300m climb up to Swampy Summit. Previous trips along this part of the track had involved ankle deep mud but again with a dry summer the track was dry with only the occasional muddy section that was easily avoided.  This made for reasonably quick walking until the terrain steepens as we approached the top of Swampy Summit.

 Taking shelter behind a building to avoid the wind, we regrouped for a final drink and snack stop.  It was a good feeling to know that most/all of the climbing was behind us and there only remained a few more kilometres between us and the finish.  Shouldering our bags for one last time we trudged along the gravel road along the top of Swampy before taking the Swampy Summit track to Flagstaff.  Deceptively there are  a couple of small ups and downs on the track which taxed tired legs.  Finally we reached the Flagstaff turn off and it was all down hill for the last few kilometres, dropping 400m to where we had started 11 hours and nearly 40km (with 1600m of climbing) earlier.