#58 of 100 trips for 100 years - Hermit's Cave (Silver Peaks) 21 May 2023

There have been a number of trips into the Silver Peaks during the #100 trips and we had been past the Hermit's Cave on trip #5 but today we were going to take a detour to visit one of the caves used by the hermit of the Silver Peaks in the late 1950's  While there have been around 20 trips to the Hermit's Cave since 1967, it is rarely visited these days so it was heartening to have 12 people arrive for the start of what was to be an adventure to a part of the Silver Peaks that only two or three people on the trip had been to before. 

The walk started as most trips to the Silver Peaks do, with a one hour walk into the Green Hut site. Despite the track being wet underfoot and quite sloppy with mud, we made good time to the hut site where we were pleased to see that there have been two recently installed seats.  Most of us took the opportunity to sit on these new seats and enjoy a snack before tackling the next uphill section. 

The track from the Green Hut site climbs up a number of extremely muddy steps through the last of the bush to the ridge where the views started to open up with Pulpit Rock ahead of us, Mosgiel and Saddle Hill to the left and Waitati and the coast line to the right. The climb towards Pulpit Rock is a steep 200m climb along an exposed ridge where the recent heavy rains had scoured out the track .  The pace up the hill was relentless and we regrouped at the base of Pulpit Rock giving us time to look around and admire the view.  From this great vantage point we were able to pick out places that we had recently been to during the #100 trips.

The next section of track is a sidle around the head of the Painted Forest to reach the turn off along Rocky Ridge.  The Painted Forest is another little visited part of the Silver Peaks and got its name because the green forest looked painted amongst the silvery/gold tussock of the Silver Peaks.  Today the tussock tops are being taken over by scrub and the painted forest doesn't look as out of place as it once did. 

The turn off to Rocky Ridge is not marked and is often overlooked, however  it is obvious for those who know what to look for.  While most people on on this trip had not been along Rocky Ridge, no one showed any hesitation to take the indistinct trail and we were soon swallowed by the head high scrub as we tried our best to stick to the obscure and unmaintained track.  In places the track can be difficult to follow but once your feet find the track, it's best to trust them and just keep going while pushing through the scrub.

It was along Rocky Ridge that we started to really feel the cold wind blowing over the exposed ridge.  One way to keep warm was to simply keep moving.  Once amongst the Cat's Teeth we were able to shelter behind the large rock tors while waiting to regroup.  On a fine day such as today, the views all along the ridge are spectacular and. it is easy to see where the name Rocky Ridge came from. In places we were able to look a head to the rocks that are home to the Hermits Cave - that is if you know where to look.

 

Before we knew it, we had reached the turn off to Hermits Cave and again, this was another of those indistinct routes that you would miss if you didn't know where it was.  What can only be loosely described as a vague route drops steeply off the side of the ridge and requires both hands to keep yourself upright as you slip and slide your way down through the vegetation.  The best form of attack was to keep the person in front of you within sight but this was difficult as at times small trees appeared to swallow the person and it was a matter of pushing through and keeping moving.

 

The small cave about 30m down from the ridge is often mistaken for Hermits Cave but those of us who have been there before know to continue steeply down the hill for around 120m  before sidling to the right under the rock bluffs and eventually (after most have given up hope) you will stumble across the entrance to Hermits Cave.The descent to Hermits Cave requires a sense of adventure and confidence in your navigation skills.

It is obvious that this is the real Hermits Cave because it is dry, very sheltered on all sides and has more 'home comforts' than any other cave in the immediate vicinity.  From my last visit here 4 years ago, the chimney is no longer standing but there are more  bottles and billies for water collection and there is the addition of an indoor plant.

Hermits Cave was a good place for lunch as it is sheltered and enough room inside and out for such the large group.  There was lots of discussion about what it would have been like living here for 3 years, including surviving 3 cold winters by yourself in this remote part of the Silver Peaks.  All too soon lunch was over and it was time to head back up the hill to the ridge.  What had seemed steep on the way down, was just as steep going up and required both hands to help pull yourself up the steepest parts.  After a lot of huffing and puffing, all 12 of us were happy to regain ridge.  The wind was still cold on the ridge and we didn't linger long before retracing our route as best we could along the indistinct track on Rocky Ridge.

After Rocky Ridge, reaching the main Silver Peaks track is like walking on a highway and while the track is still muddy in places and gouged out by recent rain, it is easy to follow and you have time to look around and appreciate your surroundings.  We made fast time down the main track to Green Hut Site where we took the opportunity to sit on the new seats and have an afternoon snack and while it was still cold, we were out of the wind. 

The final hour of walking is along Green Ridge from the hit site to Mountain Road and we have completed this part of the track a number of times over the #100 trips.  It has been interesting to see the changes of the track from a hard, dry surface in the summer to wet and muddy now. There has been some track maintenance with trees being cut back along the sides of the track and the colours of the manuka forest have changed with the different weather and progression of seasons. Over all it was an enjoyable day in the Silver Peaks where 18km and around 700m of ascent was covered in 7 hours. 

#50 of 100 trips for 100 years - Yellow Ridge - The Gap - ABC Cave 25 April 2023

Last time I'd been at the start of the Tunnels Track and heading towards the Phil Cox Hut was six months ago for trip #5 along Rocky Ridge.  It was at the start of the 100 trips and I was feeling very unfit, today was halfway with trip #50 to The Gap and ABC Cave and I wasn't so sure that I was feeling any fitter however I was happy to be part of 12 people keen to mark the halfway milestone of 100 trips on ANZAC day.  ABC cave is named after three club members from the 1960's who were keen rock climbers and found a large bivy rock near some good rock outcrops - their names Alan, Bruce and Colin hence ABC Cave.  The first club trip to ABC cave was on ANZAC day in 1971 and 52 years later, we were recreating that trip. 

It hardly seemed fair as the track starts with a sharp descent of 220m through a pine plantation to the Waikouaiti River where everyone got wet feet crossing the river before a steep 240m climb to Phil Cox Hut.  The abrupt climb out of the Waikouaiti River is challenging in places with a couple of fixed ropes for safety but is mostly just an uphill slog and reaching the hut is a welcome resting place.  After a drink and snack break, we continued climbing another 100m in height to Yellow Ridge.  Once on Yellow Ridge it is a reasonably easy 120m climb over 3km along the undulations of Yellow Ridge.  The changes in Yellow Ridge over the years has seen the scrub encroach onto the ridge, leaving barely any of the iconic yellow tussock that I remember and shown in the pictures below - the top photo Yellow Ridge today and the bottom is Yellow Ridge in the 1986.

As we approached the junction with Rocky Ridge the wind started to pick up so we didn't spend much time admiring the rock tors on Rocky Ridge before following the track away from Rocky Ridge towards The Gap.  The Gap is a prominent cut in the ridge that from a distance looks like a bite has been taken out of it.  Not having been to this unusual geological feature for 10 years, the short detour was a must for me, even if we had to negotiate shoulder high gorse to reach it.  Once at The Gap it was time to refuel the body again before turning back to rejoin the main track to ABC Cave.

The route to ABC Cave took us through some patches of the golden tussock that once covered all of the Silver Peaks and made it easy to navigate without the need of a track, however today the track is a distinct trail through the scrub that has grown since the stock was removed from the Silver Peaks 30 years ago.  The track drops 120m down from the ridge, out of the wind and joins an old four wheel drive track as it follows the creek for a short distance before a short, steep 40m climb up to ABC Cave.  The cave is well positioned to avoid most of the wind and we relaxed in the sun while eating a well deserved lunch.

Despite the temptation to stay for longer, after lunch we reluctantly headed down the hill back to the four wheel track for our return journey back to the cars.  The 120m climb out of the valley that ABC Cave is in didn't seem as bad as I had feared when we made the descent and it seemed no time that we were back on the ridge and heading around to the Rocky Ridge junction.  This gave us a good opportunity to see the rocky tors that are more common at this end of the Silver Peaks.  The sharp, jagged rock tors are many metres high and have some interesting shapes

The return journey along Yellow Ridge was uneventful until I started noticing the different varieties of mushroom growing along the side of the track.  The fungi was not as abundant in size and colour as trip #49  a couple of days ago but they were still worth stopping for a look. Once off the ridge and heading down towards the Phil Cox hut the mushrooms disappeared.  

Once back at the Phil Cox hut we knew we only had an hour of walking left so had an afternoon tea stop and enjoyed the moment as the hut is situated in a lovely, sunny and sheltered clearing.  The final hour of walking is the reverse of our morning with a 240m very steep descent down to the Waikouraiti River, using a couple of fixed ropes over some of the more challenging pieces of track.  The downhill seemed to take a lot longer than I remembered as it also required constant concentration to stay upright on the more precipitous parts of track.  Once at the bottom it was wet feet again as we crossed the river then the constant 220m climb back up through the pine forest to the road and cars.  The 15.4kms had taken us 7.5 hours with around 1000m of climbing.

 

#47 of 100 trips for 100 years - Jubilee Hut 16 April 2023

 

Jubilee Hut was built in the Silver Peaks for the OTMC's 25th anniversary and was a popular destination for the club up until the 1990's when it's usage and popularity dropped as maintenance became issue. In 2007 the Department of Conservation (in consultation with the OTMC) built a new Jubilee Hut at the same time as it removed the old hut.  Thanks to it's proximity to Dunedin, Jubilee Hut has become a popular destination and is often full during the weekends.  It is fitting that one of the 100 trips is to visit Jubilee Hut and 15 people (including 3 from the North Otago Tramping & Mountaineering Club) made the 8 hour trip today.  

Despite a 60m height gain immediately after leaving the Mountain Road car park, a fast pace is often set by those in the front and today was no different.  It wasn't until the gradient leveled off on the route to Green Hut Site that we were able to catch our breath and begin chatting to those walking in front and behind.  This part of the track to Green Hut Site generally takes around an hour and with clear skies we had great views of Swampy Summit on our left and towards Waikouati on our right.  The views were a great distraction, as after a week of  constant rain the track had become muddy making it a completely different experience to other recent trips into the Silver Peaks ( trip #33 & trip #38)

We regrouped at Green Hut Site and enjoyed a snack break and a short history of the site before continuing on. Initially the track enters the bush for a short but muddy climb onto the ridge where the track sidles below Green Peak before beginning the 200m climb to Pulpit Rock.  The track up is steep and open so we kept a steady pace with the occasional stop to admire the view (and catch our breath).  Knowing we had a long way to go it was only a brief stop below Pulpit Rock before pushing on to the top of the Devils Staircase.  

Despite it's name the Devils Staircase does not have any stairs, it is, however, a very steep route that descends down a defined ridge to the valley 400m below.  With slippery shingle under foot, sheer drops on both sides and very little to hold onto, it is a descent not to be underestimated.  There is a lot more gorse on the staircase than when I had last been here making it more difficult with even less to hold onto.  Most of us opted for a slow and steady pace downhill, taking our time over the more exposed and tricky parts.

Once we had all safely reached the bottom, there was just enough time for a quick look around which was again, another surprise to me as the vegetation has really grown with only one or two campsites where there had been many.  The track from the bottom of the staircase wanders along beside the creek, crossing it four times before a trudge through a very sloppy muddy section.  Everyone emerged from the almost ankle-deep mud with mud halfway up our legs.  Jubilee Hut sits 100m above the stream on a sunny terrace and that final 100m climb feels a lot higher than 100m and we were all relieved when we finally reached our destination.

Sadly the pigs have been rooting around the hut, making the once flat terrace that the hut sits on with plenty of camping spots, into a ploughed paddock with humps and hollows everywhere.  After checking out the hut, we found a relatively flat area to sit for lunch in the sun with the infamous Devils Staircase and Rocky Ridge dominating the view.

There was no time to linger over lunch as we were very aware that we still had a long way to go and an ascent of the Devils Staircase so we packed up and headed back down to cross the creek and visit the site of the old Jubilee Hut.  There is nothing but the fireplace left of the old hut and while the new hut is in a much better position for sun and views, it was nice to reminisce on some of the fun times we'd had in the old hut. 

Retracing our steps back across the creek, through the mud and four river crossings gave us the chance to clean our legs so that we arrived at the base of the Devils Staircase looking a lot cleaner.  Most of us took the opportunity to refill our water bottles from the creek before the 400m climb up staircase.  The climb up is steep and exposed with the bottom third being the steepest section and the middle third only slightly less steep while the top third is considerably easier.  Either way, it took around 60-80 minutes for everyone to make it to the top of the Devils Staircase with a number of rest stops.  

Once at the top of the Devils Staircase, all the hard work has been done and all that remains is a walk along the the tops, past Pulpit Rock and down to Green Hut Site where we had a quick drink and lolly stop.  By now the legs were starting to feel a little tired but we still had an hour of walking along Green Ridge back to the cars.  The walk is reasonably flat but I always forget about the three small uphill sections which are always hard work at the end of the day. It was so nice to see the car 22km and 8 hours after leaving. 

#33 of 100 trips for 100 years - Rosella Ridge - River Track - Gold Miners Direct 19 February 2023

 

It promised to be another hot day but that didn't deter the 14 people who were keen for an up close look at Rosella Ridge in the Silver Peaks.  The pace was set early after leaving the cars and we made very good time along Green Ridge.  It helps that the track is so dry and in good condition which meant that we were able to walk and chat easily.  Each break in the trees was an opportunity for those of us (only two) for a short stop to reminisce about last weekend's Silver Peaks Half Marathon (#31/100 trips) that had seen us walking over this same track but in the opposite direction.  Everyone was feeling very warm by the time we reached Green Hut Site and were happy for a drink stop.

Feeling good after the break, it was straight uphill behind Green Hut Site to bushline where we were rewarded with views looking towards one of the high points in the Silver Peaks, Pulpit Rock.  The track climbs 160m from Green Hut Site to the turn off to Rosella Ridge.  The water gouged track is easy to follow up through the low growing scrub and it was during this part that we really started to notice the humidity. 

Some of the team opted to tackle the extra 100m climb to the top of Pulpit Rock while others of us (who had been there for lunch last weekend) chose to wait at the Rosella Ridge turnoff.  It was a nice half hour wait for the Pulpit Rock group to return and then the next section was down Rosella Ridge.  Rosella Ridge is an informal name which appeared in the 1980’s from a couple of club members who spotted a Rosella while walking on this ridge.  At the time it was erroneously referred to as ‘Parakeet Ridge’ until the late 1980's when it was changed to the more appropriate name of Rosella Ridge.

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Rosella Ridge is a long, defined ridge that has a number of 'bumps' with the track going up and over each bump.  The track is well maintained through the shoulder high scrub which offers some shade from the noon day sun. We reached the end 'bump' affectionately known by the informal name of 'Little Pulpit Rock' for a final rest and where we were able to look across to The Cat's Teeth on Rocky Ridge (trip #5/100trips). From this vantage point we were also able to take in 360 degree views of the Silver Peaks. 

Being a little early for lunch, we continued walking and entered the mature manuka and kanuka bush as it dropped gently at first 450m down to the Waikouaiti River where we would join the River Track.  The track down through the native bush is very pleasant with ferns and mossy undergrowth along a steeply sided ridge.  A piwakawaka/fantail followed us along the trail, enjoying the feast of microscopic bugs that we stirred up as we passed through.  Partway down the ridge we stopped for a lunch break, spread out along the track in the shade.  Once lunch was over, we were back on the track, passing a number of tracks that branch off down the sides of Rosella Ridge

By following Rosella Ridge all the way down to the Waikouaiti River we eventually met up with the River Track (#28/100 trips), We had last been on this track only a couple of weeks ago, however this time we were doing the track in reverse and it was surprising to see how much climbing the track does alongside the Waikouaiti River. 

We were feeling grateful to be in the bush as the heat and humidity was high.  It was also a relief to be beside the river as we were able to stop at the small side creeks and refill our nearly empty water bottles.  The cold water from the side creeks was refreshing and some of the group took the opportunity to dunk their hats in the cold water.  After  an hour walking along the River Track we reached the Goldminers Direct Track which is a steep 30 minute climb up a number of zig zags and steps to Mountain Road and the cars in 7 hours and 15km.

#28 of 100 trips for 100 years - Silver Peaks River Track 29 January 2023

The Silver Peaks is the OTMC's most visited tramping area and the addition of the River Track linking tracks from the Waikouaiti River up the side ridges to the back bone of the Silver Peaks, Rocky Ridge (trip 5/100 trips) has really opened the area for a larger range of tramping trips.  Today's trip is special because Arthur led us on a guided tour of the River Track to Philip J Cox Memorial Hut, explaining the philosophy and issues of the work he has done on the River Track, and the improvements that continue to be made for all trampers benefit.  It was testimony of how important the Silver Peaks and the River Track are to the OTMC that eighteen people turned up for this special trip.

The day was hot and sunny so it was with some relief that we imediately headed into the shade of the bush and down the Goldminers Direct Track to the Waikouaiti River.  As the name suggests the Goldminers Direct Track takes you directly down the ridge to the river and is very steep in places.  Arthur has done a large amount of work replacing some of the steeper sections with zig zags which make for easier travel although care still needs to be taken on some sections of the track. We reached the river at the bottom in a little over half an hour where we were treated to the first of Arthur's explanations and stories as to the building of the part of this section of track.  Arthur explained the significance of the track signs and what we could expect over the next section of track.

I had been over the River Track a number of years ago when the track had only had rudimentary markings and was just a vague route through the bush, and I was keen to see the changes that had been made. The River Track winds it's way through the mature manuka bush with many sections of extensive benching meaning the track had been dug into the bank while in other parts, the track has been built up to avoid boggy areas making for a more level and smoother track to walk on.

During the walk we learnt that Arthur has spent many hours working on the track approximately (a conservative) 400 days over the past 10 years, with some help from others but mostly on his own. Some sections have required a large amount of building up with rocks dug out of earlier sections and all of this track has been hand built and funded by Arthur.  The amount of work that has gone into the River Track is phenomenal and it was a privilege to walk the track with Arthur as our guide. 

A morning tea stop was called in the shade at the Hunters Track junction and once we had rested we continued following Arthur down the River Track, crossing a couple of small side creeks including Cats Teeth Creek.  All the time we were given a running commentary of how each part of the track had been constructed and the obstacles that had to be overcome.  Once we reached the end of the benched  River Track, we continued on through the bush, following Arthur's makers.  This unformed part of the track was a privileged to walk as it gave us a good appreciation of the amount of work that was still required to complete the track. 

The temperature continued to rise throughout the morning and the steep sides of the valley seemed to radiate that heat inwards. One good thing in our favor was that we stayed in the shade of the bush all the way.  Just before the track begins to climb up towards Philip J Cox Memorial Hut, it drops to cross a significant side creek with some lovely large rocks that have created some nice pools.  Here some of the group took the opportunity to throw cold water over their head while others submerged completely for a refreshing dip. 

From the creek, the real work began for us as we climbed our way up around 300m to the Philip J Cox Memorial Hut. Without the benched track, the pace slowed and we were forced to climb over tree tree roots, sidle around slippery slopes and scramble up steep banks which made the going much slower.  We passed through a lovely section of tall tree ferns and another of twisted Fuchsia  trunks with the high leaves keeping the sun from reaching the ground beneath.  Still the track continued to wind it's way up hill through the manuka nnd sweltering under the oppressive heat we finally reached the Philip J Cox Memorial Hut in the blazing sun. Most of the group headed to the edge of the bush to sit in the shade for lunch.  Once lunch was out of the way it was time for a small ceremony to thank Arthur, on behalf of all those who have used the River Track, followed by cake.

Once we had all had a look around the Philip J Cox Memorial Hut, the compulsory team photo was taken before we shouldered our bags to begin the descent down Yellow Spur to the Waikouaiti River.

The track down Yellow Spur mostly follows the ridge downhill and is steep in places, dropping 300m with a rope conveniently placed in the more difficult places.  One section at the bottom involves climbing down a large muddy rock wall with most people finding the easiest way was to abseil down backwards holding onto another conveniently placed rope.   Once over this hurdle it was a pleasure to douse water over our heads and soak our feet in the cold water of the Waikouaiti River.

From the river, the final section of track heads straight back up the hill via The Tunnels Track to the cars.  This is a particularly steep track that climbs around 250m up to through the pine plantation to almost the same height as the Phillip J Cox Memorial Hut which we had left only a short time ago.  The tall pine trees helped to keep us in the shade and while the gradient was unrelenting the wide track made for reasonably easy walking. 

Despite the heat and steepness of the Tunnels Track, it was only 30 minutes from the river to the road and into the blazing sun.  The general consensus from everyone on the trip was that Arthur has done a phenomenal amount of work on the River Track and we are in awe of his dedication to seeing it completed. Saying thank you Arthur, just doesn't seem enough when you see the amount of work and consider how much time and energy Arthur has put into the River Track, providing a valuable alternative access into  the Silver Peaks.