Saturday, June 10, 2023

#61 of 100 trips for 100 years - Hoopers Inlet & Nyhon Track 5 June 2023

 

About 30 years ago, in the early 1990's I had helped put a sign in at both ends of the Nyhon Track but I had never actually walked the track so I was keen for today's walk. There hadn't been a trip to the Nyhon Track for a while which is maybe why there was a large group of 17 leaving from Hoopers Inlet to walk across a land bridge over the salt marsh. 

At the end of the land bridge, we crossed a style and the gentle slope turned abruptly into a very steep 200m climb straight up Dicks Hill.  The track follows the fence line and is a slippery climb up through paddocks with care needing to be taken to ensure we stayed upright.  The slope was unrelenting and as we climbed higher the view began to unfold behind us with a panoramic view of Hoopers Inlet, Allans Beach  with the bulk of Mt Charles/Poatiri dominating the skyline.
Reaching the false summit  just below Dicks Hill was a welcome place to rest, catch our breath and take a few photos before continuing on to the top where we crossed another style and followed the track down to Sandymount Road where memories were retold and photo's taken as we took the stairs down the bank to the road that I had helped dig 30 years ago.
The next section of the trip was a short road walk up Sandymount Road to the historic lime kilns where we took the 5 minute detour to see the kiln which had been built in the 1860's and was in use until the early 1900's.  As the weather was nice and it was a warm, sheltered spot so we took the opportunity for a morning tea break. 
After our short break and a team photo or two we headed back to the Sandymount Road which we followed it uphill to Highcliff Road and then another 20 minutes to the Harbour Cone track. It was along this stretch of road that a light misty rain started to fall and then the cold wind picked up so the possibility of climbing Harbour Cone was dismissed and instead we plunged down the hill, threading our way through some ancient marcrocarpa trees to the stone ruins of an historic house where we each found a sheltered spot amongst the stone walls to eat lunch.  

Thankfully the light rain had stopped but the temperature remained cold so lunch was a rather hurried affair with  everyone keen to move on before becoming too cold.  After lunch we back tracked for a short distance before following the fence line down into a gully which had us scratching our heads a little as the track seemed to lead into a patch of native bush with no obvious way out.  In the end we took the path of least resistance that headed in the direction we wanted to go i.e. downhill.  It took more time than expected to get down through the bush with 17 people clambering over roots and through vines while slipping and sliding down the hill.  Eventually we all emerged from the bush at the bottom of the hill where we regrouped before wandering through the paddocks, around the boggy bits, crossing a couple of fences and over a small hill or two.  
The track took us back onto flat land and by following the markers we completed a loop by reaching the path that we had followed on the way in, just where it reached the steep climb up Dicks Hill.  The temperature down in the gully, out of the wind was much warmer than higher on the hill and we were able to take our time and enjoy the scenery around us. 
From here it was only a short walk back down the gentle slope, across the land bridge and back to the cars four hours and 8.4km after starting.  This is a part of the peninsula that I had not spent much time on or  tracks that I had walked before and I had enjoyed the day with wonderful views of the surrounding landscape, particularly of areas that we have recently visited during the #100 trips

#60 of 100 trips for 100 years - Green Hut Site - 90th Anniversary 3 June 2023

 

Today's trip to Green Hut Site in the Silver Peaks was a special one as on this day 90 years ago, 3 June 1933, the clubs first hut, just below Green Hill was opened.  Taking just three months to build the hut, it became the main base of club activity in the Silver Peaks until the late 1940's when Jubilee Hut was built and became more important to the club.  Sadly Green Hut was removed in 1988 due to vandalism and today there is just a small clearing amongst the bush to mark the site. 

Maybe it was the promise of cake or maybe it was because the winter sun was shining  - whatever the reason, 21 people gathered at 10 am for the one hour walk to celebrate Green Hut's 90th birthday.  A mixture of older club members who remembered the hut, members from the Green Hut track cutting group and newer club members with no knowledge of the hut gathered  for the 60m climb up the hill.  Usually this first climb is at a fast pace but today with some of the older club members present, the climb was at a leisurely pace which gave us time to chat to the people in front and behind as the track wound it's way through the manuka. 
After reaching the crest of the climb, the track sidles around on the contour line and we were able to stop and admire the expansive views of the Silver Peaks. Our destination was visible, just below the dip in the ridge line with Green Peak slightly in front of and to the left of the Pulpit Rock which is the dominating peak from this angle.  (Green Hut site is marked with a red X in the picture below)
The trees have grown a lot over the 35+ years that I have been coming to the Silver Peaks and even more so from 90 years ago when Green Hut was built.  90 years ago, bullocks were used to drag a wagon over the tussock tops to the ridge above Green Hut Site and then the hut building material was carried by hand down to the site.  Today the landscape is completely different and the trees would make that task impossible.
There has been a lot of work on the track in recent years with the surface being a lot drier and not so much mud as in previous years, in fact despite being early winter and having had a number of wet days recently, the track is in surprisingly good condition.  Because the track was in such good condition we were able to take our time and look around, being rewarded with glimpses between the trees of wonderful views looking towards Swampy Summit on our left and to the hills inland on our right. 
After an hour of walking, we arrived at Green Hut Site which was to be the place of our celebrations. The area today is hardly recognizable as the original site as the trees have grown, covering the hill behind where the hut was as well as growing on the actual hut site.  We were very heartened to see the two seats that were recently installed by the Green Hut Track Group were still in place and some of the group wasted no time in making use of them.   As was fitting for the occasion, a couple of speeches were made giving a brief outline of the hut and it's history along with the establishment of the Green Hut Track Group who maintain the tracks in the Silver Peaks. 
After the cake cutting ceremony it was time to find a place in the sun for lunch and a chat with those around you.  Some of the fitter, more enthusiastic of the group decided to head up Green Hill, arriving back in time to join the rest of the group on the walk back to the cars.  We retraced our steps, stopping often to admire the views and enjoy the sun.

During the walk, it was great to see the camaraderie of the OTMC with those fitter, walking alongside and encouraging the older club members, swapping stories of past trips in the Silver Peaks and memories of Green Hut.  All up a shorter day trip with only two hours of walking and a trip I was very pleased to have been apart of.

Wednesday, May 31, 2023

#59 of 100 trips for 100 years - Pine Hill Road - Leith Valley Road (via Cowan Road, Three Peaks, Cloud Forest Track) 28 May 2023

 

This day trip is mainly a road walk with the addition of the Cloud Forest of Leith Track and is part of the #100 trips as we follow in the footsteps of members of the OTC 100 years ago who would have walked similar distances  before they got to the start of the trip.  Like trip #22 we weren't sure how many would be keen for a road walking trip so were pleasantly surprised when 11 people gathered at Woodhaugh Gardens. 

Starting at only 20m above sea level we walked along the side of The Leith through Woodhaugh Gardens then along Malvern Street for a couple of kilometres before turning off onto Patmos Avenue. It is here that the real work began as we started on the 560m climb towards Mt Cargill/Kapukataumahaka.  Patmos Avenue winds it's way up the hill, passing from houses into farm land.  We managed to catch glimpses of Bishopsgrove which is a large historic home built in the 1880's for Dunedin's first bishop as we continued up the hill.  We only had a brief rest to admire the view of the city as we crossed the bridge over Dunedin's Northern Motorway.
After crossing the motorway there is a steep section of road before joining Pine Hill Road which marked the halfway point of the height we needed to climb. Luckily we didn't realise it at the time or maybe some of us would have turned around here but with the top of the hill beckoning we continued onwards and upwards.  Cowan Road was reached and this road is one of those roads that just keeps on giving with 250m of height gained over 2.5km on a straight road. It was deceiving as we thought we had reached the top but there was always another small rise to climb, eventually though at 560m we reached the turn off to the Three Peaks Track where we thankfully stopped for a drink and snack break. 
We had been down the Three Peaks and Cloud Forest tracks in February for trip #30 when the temperatures were over 30C, today it was much cooler with around 10C so the green tunnel of interlocking branches was not quite so welcoming as previously.  The track was slippery in places and required some concentration to stay upright but not to be deterred we plunged on down the track, coming out on a four wheel drive track that sidled around the hill to the power lines and a fantastic view overlooking Waitati, Warrington and down the coast to Karitane and inland to the Silver Peaks.
The next part of our trip took us down the Cloud Forest of Leith track which is a rough track through the forest, climbing over fallen logs, stepping around tree roots, forging through mud puddles and pushing through ferns.  This track has everything a forest in the clouds has to offer while winding it's way through the native forest, crossing a number of small streams with board walks covering some of the muddier sections. After a half hour of this fun, we emerged at Sullivans Dam covered in varying amounts of mud for a well deserved lunch break on the shore of the picturesque dam.
The final six or so kilometres is back to road walking with about half of that on a gravel road. The gravel road section follows the Leith down through a gorge with steeply forested sides allowing very little sunlight to reach the bottom during the shorter winter days while the sealed section is flatter with houses along the river bank.  As it is all downhill, a good pace was set and with very little traffic we could walk and talk with others in the group.  Eventually we had retraced our footsteps and arrived back at Woodhaugh where we had started about 5 hours and 18.6km of mainly road walking with around 680m of ascent.

Saturday, May 27, 2023

#58 of 100 trips for 100 years - Hermit's Cave (Silver Peaks) 21 May 2023


There have been a number of trips into the Silver Peaks during the #100 trips and we had been past the Hermit's Cave on trip #5 but today we were going to take a detour to visit one of the caves used by the hermit of the Silver Peaks in the late 1950's  While there have been around 20 trips to the Hermit's Cave since 1967, it is rarely visited these days so it was heartening to have 12 people arrive for the start of what was to be an adventure to a part of the Silver Peaks that only two or three people on the trip had been to before. 
The walk started as most trips to the Silver Peaks do, with a one hour walk into the Green Hut site. Despite the track being wet underfoot and quite sloppy with mud, we made good time to the hut site where we were pleased to see that there have been two recently installed seats.  Most of us took the opportunity to sit on these new seats and enjoy a snack before tackling the next uphill section. 
The track from the Green Hut site climbs up a number of extremely muddy steps through the last of the bush to the ridge where the views started to open up with Pulpit Rock ahead of us, Mosgiel and Saddle Hill to the left and Waitati and the coast line to the right. The climb towards Pulpit Rock is a steep 200m climb along an exposed ridge where the recent heavy rains had scoured out the track .  The pace up the hill was relentless and we regrouped at the base of Pulpit Rock giving us time to look around and admire the view.  From this great vantage point we were able to pick out places that we had recently been to during the #100 trips.
The next section of track is a sidle around the head of the Painted Forest to reach the turn off along Rocky Ridge.  The Painted Forest is another little visited part of the Silver Peaks and got its name because the green forest looked painted amongst the silvery/gold tussock of the Silver Peaks.  Today the tussock tops are being taken over by scrub and the painted forest doesn't look as out of place as it once did. 
The turn off to Rocky Ridge is not marked and is often overlooked, however  it is obvious for those who know what to look for.  While most people on on this trip had not been along Rocky Ridge, no one showed any hesitation to take the indistinct trail and we were soon swallowed by the head high scrub as we tried our best to stick to the obscure and unmaintained track.  In places the track can be difficult to follow but once your feet find the track, it's best to trust them and just keep going while pushing through the scrub.
It was along Rocky Ridge that we started to really feel the cold wind blowing over the exposed ridge.  One way to keep warm was to simply keep moving.  Once amongst the Cat's Teeth we were able to shelter behind the large rock tors while waiting to regroup.  On a fine day such as today, the views all along the ridge are spectacular and. it is easy to see where the name Rocky Ridge came from. In places we were able to look a head to the rocks that are home to the Hermits Cave - that is if you know where to look.
 
Before we knew it, we had reached the turn off to Hermits Cave and again, this was another of those indistinct routes that you would miss if you didn't know where it was.  What can only be loosely described as a vague route drops steeply off the side of the ridge and requires both hands to keep yourself upright as you slip and slide your way down through the vegetation.  The best form of attack was to keep the person in front of you within sight but this was difficult as at times small trees appeared to swallow the person and it was a matter of pushing through and keeping moving.
 
The small cave about 30m down from the ridge is often mistaken for Hermits Cave but those of us who have been there before know to continue steeply down the hill for around 120m  before sidling to the right under the rock bluffs and eventually (after most have given up hope) you will stumble across the entrance to Hermits Cave.The descent to Hermits Cave requires a sense of adventure and confidence in your navigation skills.
It is obvious that this is the real Hermits Cave because it is dry, very sheltered on all sides and has more 'home comforts' than any other cave in the immediate vicinity.  From my last visit here 4 years ago, the chimney is no longer standing but there are more  bottles and billies for water collection and there is the addition of an indoor plant.
Hermits Cave was a good place for lunch as it is sheltered and enough room inside and out for such the large group.  There was lots of discussion about what it would have been like living here for 3 years, including surviving 3 cold winters by yourself in this remote part of the Silver Peaks.  All too soon lunch was over and it was time to head back up the hill to the ridge.  What had seemed steep on the way down, was just as steep going up and required both hands to help pull yourself up the steepest parts.  After a lot of huffing and puffing, all 12 of us were happy to regain ridge.  The wind was still cold on the ridge and we didn't linger long before retracing our route as best we could along the indistinct track on Rocky Ridge.
After Rocky Ridge, reaching the main Silver Peaks track is like walking on a highway and while the track is still muddy in places and gouged out by recent rain, it is easy to follow and you have time to look around and appreciate your surroundings.  We made fast time down the main track to Green Hut Site where we took the opportunity to sit on the new seats and have an afternoon snack and while it was still cold, we were out of the wind. 
The final hour of walking is along Green Ridge from the hit site to Mountain Road and we have completed this part of the track a number of times over the #100 trips.  It has been interesting to see the changes of the track from a hard, dry surface in the summer to wet and muddy now. There has been some track maintenance with trees being cut back along the sides of the track and the colours of the manuka forest have changed with the different weather and progression of seasons. Over all it was an enjoyable day in the Silver Peaks where 18km and around 700m of ascent was covered in 7 hours. 

Sunday, May 21, 2023

#57 of 100 trips for 100 years - Buskin - Boulder Beach - Paradise Track 20 May 2023 (by Jade Pettinger)

 

I guess a rainy trip was bound to happen one day, in fact I think we have all been surprised that 56 trips have been completed with good weather so far. Waking up to the gentle pattering of rain on the roof I knew our luck had run out, and so ensued the mental battle of “do I roll over, snuggle into my warm bed and go back to sleep OR do I drag myself out of bed, don my wet weather gear and go tramping?”. Obviously tramping was the winner, so despite the misty rain I headed to the designated meeting point, curious to see if any other OTMCers were crazy enough to join me.

Surprisingly by 9am there were seven of us huddled outside the clubrooms, which was six more people than I was expecting. We set off for Highcliff Road in good spirits, however these were soon dampened by the dense mist and relentless rain which only seemed to get thicker the closer we got to our destination. By the time we had disembarked the vehicles and got our gear sorted we were already a wet soggy mess.

The first kilometre or so of our walk took us along Highcliff Road to the start of the Buskin Track, which normally would give us panoramic views over the coast above Boulder Beach. However this was not the case today, instead we had our heads down battling through the stinging rain which felt like ice cold bullets hitting our exposed legs. We made record time along this section of road, reaching our destination in just over 10 minutes, motivated by the prospect of dropping down out of the wind and pelting rain.
This was one of those trips where those of us who need glasses were at a disadvantage, as it was impossible to see through wet, fogged up glasses yet equally impossible to see without them. Whoever invents window wipers for glasses will make a killing…
You certainly needed good eyesight as the first section of the Buskin Track descends over some deceivingly uneven terrain, which coupled with long wet grass created quite the hazard. As we lost height, the cloud started to clear (or maybe we were just dropping out of the cloud) and the views started to open up. Boulder Beach stretched out in the distance, surrounded by the rolling hills of the neighbouring farmland.
The track we were following through farmland soon changed as we reached a small cluster of trees. We traded long grass for a boggy track with slippery planks of wood to help us over the worst of it. This was no obstacle for the mighty OTMC so we quickly skipped our way across with no mishaps.
Our respite from the rain under the tall pine trees was short lived as we were soon back out in the open, with the beach much closer and the terrain flattening out. From here was a short meander to a private cottage which marked the crossroads between the Buskin Track, the Paradise track and the short route to Boulder Beach. As the rain was holding off, we opted to take the short detour to Boulder Beach, which wasn’t as straightforward as one would have thought.
There was no marked route onto the beach, but thankfully there was a track worn in by the multitudes of people who are sure to visit this remote beach each year. Some parts of this track involved pushing our way through thick, head high flax - if we weren’t wet before we were absolutely soaked now. We had to watch our footing as there were troublesome vines hiding in the undergrowth which could easily trip you up if you unknowingly got your foot caught in one, which more than one of us did.
In order to stand on the sand of the beach, we had to slip and slide our way over the slippery boulders (more like rocks) that bordered the sand dunes, giving Boulder Beach its name. Once on the beach some of us went for a wee wander along the water's edge to see if any wildlife could be spotted while others took the opportunity to have a snack and drink. Although it wasn’t raining on the beach, the wind was certainly chilly and we were mindful of the fact the weather was forecast to worsen in the afternoon so we hastily set off again.
Unfortunately we had made a mistake in our excitement to reach the beach and did not take notice of where exactly we had exited the sand dunes onto the beach. However, it only took a short while of wandering around the dunes before we found the track we had followed and thankfully none of us stumbled onto any sleeping sea lions! It was another quick stop in the shelter of the trees at the crossroads to re-energise ourselves before the climb up to Highcliff Road.
While the Buskin Track seemed to snake its way around the hills, the Paradise track took us straight up along the edge of some paddocks. Maybe it was the steeper terrain but the track up certainly seemed to be muddier, which made me glad we didn’t descend this way as it would have turned into a bit of a slip n slide in places.
Before long we left the coastal views behind as we ascended back up into the cloud, which surprisingly was quite dry. We were all pretty soaked by this point so perhaps it was the thought of a warm shower and dry clothes that helped us to make good time up the hill - 30 minutes from the crossroads to Highcliff Road, not bad for close to 300m of elevation gain! 
Maybe it was wishful thinking, but the rain seemed to intensify once we were safely back in the vehicles heading for home. The loop took us 2 ½ hours to complete, including stops with 6.7km traveled.

by Jade Pettinger

Otago Harbour Cycleway 30 October 2023

With my sister in town, it seemed a shame to waste a calm, sunny day so the two of us hopped on a bike each to enjoy the recently opened 32k...