#50 of 100 trips for 100 years - Yellow Ridge - The Gap - ABC Cave 25 April 2023

Last time I'd been at the start of the Tunnels Track and heading towards the Phil Cox Hut was six months ago for trip #5 along Rocky Ridge.  It was at the start of the 100 trips and I was feeling very unfit, today was halfway with trip #50 to The Gap and ABC Cave and I wasn't so sure that I was feeling any fitter however I was happy to be part of 12 people keen to mark the halfway milestone of 100 trips on ANZAC day.  ABC cave is named after three club members from the 1960's who were keen rock climbers and found a large bivy rock near some good rock outcrops - their names Alan, Bruce and Colin hence ABC Cave.  The first club trip to ABC cave was on ANZAC day in 1971 and 52 years later, we were recreating that trip. 

It hardly seemed fair as the track starts with a sharp descent of 220m through a pine plantation to the Waikouaiti River where everyone got wet feet crossing the river before a steep 240m climb to Phil Cox Hut.  The abrupt climb out of the Waikouaiti River is challenging in places with a couple of fixed ropes for safety but is mostly just an uphill slog and reaching the hut is a welcome resting place.  After a drink and snack break, we continued climbing another 100m in height to Yellow Ridge.  Once on Yellow Ridge it is a reasonably easy 120m climb over 3km along the undulations of Yellow Ridge.  The changes in Yellow Ridge over the years has seen the scrub encroach onto the ridge, leaving barely any of the iconic yellow tussock that I remember and shown in the pictures below - the top photo Yellow Ridge today and the bottom is Yellow Ridge in the 1986.

As we approached the junction with Rocky Ridge the wind started to pick up so we didn't spend much time admiring the rock tors on Rocky Ridge before following the track away from Rocky Ridge towards The Gap.  The Gap is a prominent cut in the ridge that from a distance looks like a bite has been taken out of it.  Not having been to this unusual geological feature for 10 years, the short detour was a must for me, even if we had to negotiate shoulder high gorse to reach it.  Once at The Gap it was time to refuel the body again before turning back to rejoin the main track to ABC Cave.

The route to ABC Cave took us through some patches of the golden tussock that once covered all of the Silver Peaks and made it easy to navigate without the need of a track, however today the track is a distinct trail through the scrub that has grown since the stock was removed from the Silver Peaks 30 years ago.  The track drops 120m down from the ridge, out of the wind and joins an old four wheel drive track as it follows the creek for a short distance before a short, steep 40m climb up to ABC Cave.  The cave is well positioned to avoid most of the wind and we relaxed in the sun while eating a well deserved lunch.

Despite the temptation to stay for longer, after lunch we reluctantly headed down the hill back to the four wheel track for our return journey back to the cars.  The 120m climb out of the valley that ABC Cave is in didn't seem as bad as I had feared when we made the descent and it seemed no time that we were back on the ridge and heading around to the Rocky Ridge junction.  This gave us a good opportunity to see the rocky tors that are more common at this end of the Silver Peaks.  The sharp, jagged rock tors are many metres high and have some interesting shapes

The return journey along Yellow Ridge was uneventful until I started noticing the different varieties of mushroom growing along the side of the track.  The fungi was not as abundant in size and colour as trip #49  a couple of days ago but they were still worth stopping for a look. Once off the ridge and heading down towards the Phil Cox hut the mushrooms disappeared.  

Once back at the Phil Cox hut we knew we only had an hour of walking left so had an afternoon tea stop and enjoyed the moment as the hut is situated in a lovely, sunny and sheltered clearing.  The final hour of walking is the reverse of our morning with a 240m very steep descent down to the Waikouraiti River, using a couple of fixed ropes over some of the more challenging pieces of track.  The downhill seemed to take a lot longer than I remembered as it also required constant concentration to stay upright on the more precipitous parts of track.  Once at the bottom it was wet feet again as we crossed the river then the constant 220m climb back up through the pine forest to the road and cars.  The 15.4kms had taken us 7.5 hours with around 1000m of climbing.

 

#47 of 100 trips for 100 years - Jubilee Hut 16 April 2023

 

Jubilee Hut was built in the Silver Peaks for the OTMC's 25th anniversary and was a popular destination for the club up until the 1990's when it's usage and popularity dropped as maintenance became issue. In 2007 the Department of Conservation (in consultation with the OTMC) built a new Jubilee Hut at the same time as it removed the old hut.  Thanks to it's proximity to Dunedin, Jubilee Hut has become a popular destination and is often full during the weekends.  It is fitting that one of the 100 trips is to visit Jubilee Hut and 15 people (including 3 from the North Otago Tramping & Mountaineering Club) made the 8 hour trip today.  

Despite a 60m height gain immediately after leaving the Mountain Road car park, a fast pace is often set by those in the front and today was no different.  It wasn't until the gradient leveled off on the route to Green Hut Site that we were able to catch our breath and begin chatting to those walking in front and behind.  This part of the track to Green Hut Site generally takes around an hour and with clear skies we had great views of Swampy Summit on our left and towards Waikouati on our right.  The views were a great distraction, as after a week of  constant rain the track had become muddy making it a completely different experience to other recent trips into the Silver Peaks ( trip #33 & trip #38)

We regrouped at Green Hut Site and enjoyed a snack break and a short history of the site before continuing on. Initially the track enters the bush for a short but muddy climb onto the ridge where the track sidles below Green Peak before beginning the 200m climb to Pulpit Rock.  The track up is steep and open so we kept a steady pace with the occasional stop to admire the view (and catch our breath).  Knowing we had a long way to go it was only a brief stop below Pulpit Rock before pushing on to the top of the Devils Staircase.  

Despite it's name the Devils Staircase does not have any stairs, it is, however, a very steep route that descends down a defined ridge to the valley 400m below.  With slippery shingle under foot, sheer drops on both sides and very little to hold onto, it is a descent not to be underestimated.  There is a lot more gorse on the staircase than when I had last been here making it more difficult with even less to hold onto.  Most of us opted for a slow and steady pace downhill, taking our time over the more exposed and tricky parts.

Once we had all safely reached the bottom, there was just enough time for a quick look around which was again, another surprise to me as the vegetation has really grown with only one or two campsites where there had been many.  The track from the bottom of the staircase wanders along beside the creek, crossing it four times before a trudge through a very sloppy muddy section.  Everyone emerged from the almost ankle-deep mud with mud halfway up our legs.  Jubilee Hut sits 100m above the stream on a sunny terrace and that final 100m climb feels a lot higher than 100m and we were all relieved when we finally reached our destination.

Sadly the pigs have been rooting around the hut, making the once flat terrace that the hut sits on with plenty of camping spots, into a ploughed paddock with humps and hollows everywhere.  After checking out the hut, we found a relatively flat area to sit for lunch in the sun with the infamous Devils Staircase and Rocky Ridge dominating the view.

There was no time to linger over lunch as we were very aware that we still had a long way to go and an ascent of the Devils Staircase so we packed up and headed back down to cross the creek and visit the site of the old Jubilee Hut.  There is nothing but the fireplace left of the old hut and while the new hut is in a much better position for sun and views, it was nice to reminisce on some of the fun times we'd had in the old hut. 

Retracing our steps back across the creek, through the mud and four river crossings gave us the chance to clean our legs so that we arrived at the base of the Devils Staircase looking a lot cleaner.  Most of us took the opportunity to refill our water bottles from the creek before the 400m climb up staircase.  The climb up is steep and exposed with the bottom third being the steepest section and the middle third only slightly less steep while the top third is considerably easier.  Either way, it took around 60-80 minutes for everyone to make it to the top of the Devils Staircase with a number of rest stops.  

Once at the top of the Devils Staircase, all the hard work has been done and all that remains is a walk along the the tops, past Pulpit Rock and down to Green Hut Site where we had a quick drink and lolly stop.  By now the legs were starting to feel a little tired but we still had an hour of walking along Green Ridge back to the cars.  The walk is reasonably flat but I always forget about the three small uphill sections which are always hard work at the end of the day. It was so nice to see the car 22km and 8 hours after leaving. 

#46 of 100 trips for 100 years - Racemans - Coal Creek - Steve Amies Track 9 April 2023

There was some initial hesitation from the six people when faced with the prospect of getting wet feet within the first five minutes of starting the day trip but not wanting to be left behind, all skipped across the watery ford in varying degrees of gracefulness. We took the turn off  on the right that brought us to a swing bridge over the Silver Stream before following the stream. After the first kilometre or so, we climbed a rise to reach the water race and the Racemans track.  The Racemans track follows the Silver Stream Water Race which was built around 1877 and consisted of nearly 30 kilometres  of open water races, sluices, tunnels, and weirs which bought water to the growing city of Dunedin.  The water race was in use for nearly 100 years when it was abandoned in the 1960's as it became too hard to maintain. The Racemans track follows the easy gradient of the water race, weaving in and out around the side of the steep sided Silver Stream catchment.  After an hour and half of easy walking, a mutual decision saw us stopping in a sunny spot on the track for a snack break.

Feeling replenished we continued on for another kilometre to the top weir where we paused to watch the water flowing over the weir and marvel at the clearness of the water in the stream below the weir.  The weir is the start of the water race and it's quite sobering to think about the amount of work that had gone into creating the weir and the water race as well as the maintenance of it. Today there is still plenty to see of the now overgrown water race and although there are trees and tree ferns growing in water race as well as parts of it that have subsided it is worth a visit.

From the weir we retraced our steps for 10 minutes to the North Coal Creek track which steeply climbs 400m up the eastern side of the Silver Stream catchment.  The track is easy to follow with orange markers at regular intervals and plenty of handily placed trees to aid with the rapid gain in height. The track passes through native podocarp forest with plenty of clambering up and over tree roots before a rocky section with the terrain changing to large moss covered boulders to clamber up.  Taking our time to rest often we were amazed at the variety of greens in the forest, particularly when the sun shines through the forest canopy highlighting the greens from lime to almost black. 

As we gained the ridge, we became aware of the wind in the trees overhead and the drop in temperature. There were glimpses of  dark forbidding clouds looming over the Silver Peaks making us pleased to be in the relative safety of the bush.  As we neared the top of the hill, there are a couple of good places to stop giving good views of the Silver Peaks and the Silver Stream catchment however the gale force winds kept us moving upwards.

At the highest part of the track is Trig Q nestled in a sheltered part of the bush and it seemed the perfect place to stop.  We each found a comfortable spot out of the wind and settled down to lunch and sharing of  chocolate Easter eggs. Once we had our fill of food, there was just enough time for a team photo before beginning to head down the Steve Aimies track.

The Steve Aimes track is well defined and with very little undergrowth is easy to follow.  If we had thought the climb up North Coal Creek track was steep, the descent down the Steve Aimes track was just as sheer.  The track follows a distinct ridge and descends steadily dropping 200m over 2km before the gradient abruptly changes, dropping the final 200m in less than 1km.  We were grateful that the ground underfoot was dry as it could have been treacherous if a little muddy.

Eventually we all reached the relative flat of the Racemans track in one piece.  After regrouping and a quick drink we started on the final 1.5km back along the Racemans track.  By now we noticed that the sky was clearing and wind had dropped.  The crossing of the ford at the start of the track was straightforward and we were back at the cars 5 hours and 14.2km after starting.

 

#38 of 100 trips for 100 years - High Points of Silver Peaks 12 March 2023

 

On previous trips to the Silver Peaks we had completed three summits, then five summits and today was the ultimate seven summits.  It can’t have been a completely silly idea because 14 people agreed to join us on this challenge.  With clear skies we left the car park on Mountain Road and headed up towards our first summit of Hightop which at 531m was the lowest of our summits for the day.  From the turn off on Green Ridge the track to Hightop quickly runs out and becomes more of a bush/flax bash gaining 80m of height to the open golden tussock tops. This was our first real opportunity to look ahead to the other six summits and also to get the first team summit photo.

We had been on Hightop a couple of times recently for trips #18 and #26 but not from this direction and it would be fair to say that our climb up and then descent down Hightop back to Green Ridge did not take us on a route we had done previously and involved more bush bashing  as well as taking us through a lovely standing forest of manuka which we nicknamed the Goblin Forest.  Once back on Green Ridge with a few extra scratches, it was a reasonably fast walk to our next summit turn off and an easier climb to the 588m summit We felt like we were cheating a little as the Greengage Track took us right up to the summit, and while the Greengage Track is steep in places there are a few steps and handily placed trees to aid the climb up (and then back down).  For the effort of climbing our second summit we were rewarded with great views of yesterday’s trip #37 to Saddle Hill and Mosgiel.

Back down to Green Ridge and it was onto our next summit, Green Hill for lunch.  The 90m climb up to Green Hill is a little steep in places and takes us out of the bush so we had panoramic views in all directions but mostly we focussed our attention towards the interior of the Silver Peaks where the remaining four summits beaconed.  Lunch was enjoyed in the sun but not for long as we knew that we still had most of the climbing still to do.

On our descent of Green Hill we opted for a slight detour and instead of following the track back to Green Ridge we bush bashed our way down to join Green Ridge further along, missing a section of the track.  Having descended from Green Hill we were faced with 180m climb up to Pulpit Rock.  The track up is consistently steep and also out in the open making the climb hot work.  Most of us took the slow and steady approach to reach the top of Pulpit Rock and still have some energy left to tackle the remaining summits.  At Pulpit Rock we had wonderful 360degree views over the Taieri Plains and inland to the Rock and Pillars, out to Karitane on the coast and around to Mt Cargill and Mosgiel.  We were able to pick out the peaks of Mt Watkin, Mt Charles and of course Saddle Hill which are the other summits we had climbed over the past couple of weekends.

Down from Pulpit Rock and it was only a short walk to our next summit of 744m.  This was one of the shortest climbs today as it is only about 40m higher than the track but is a steep scramble through the scrub and tussock to the narrow top.  We were feeling pretty elated as this was our fifth summit with the remaining two being within grasp. 

We headed back down through the scrub to the track and a fast pace was set towards Silver Peak, our highest summit at 777m.  Again we were rewarded with awe-inspiring 360degree views and for some this was a good place for a second lunch which they hadn’t had time to eat earlier.  Standing on Silver Peak, we had uninterrupted views looking down Christmas Creek and inland to Strath Taieri. The legs were starting to feel a little tired but with only one summit to go there was only one way to go.  

Our seventh and final summit  which was the no named peak with a trig on it and is only 10m lower than Silver Peak but requires a descent from Silver Peak, then a climb up to the trig.  We reached the 767m summit by taking a little used trail off the main track that wound it’s way up through the tussock to the trig.  With a small detour to a little off the summit we were able to see down Cave Creek  to Jubilee Hut in the valley below.  There was lots of smiles as we posed for the final of our summit photos.  We were all buoyed by the knowledge  that we had achieved our goal of 7 summits in 1 day.

The return journey back to the cars was straightforward as we didn’t have to make any detours to summits and we followed Green Ridge down to the Green Hut Site where we had a brief rest and snack (or third lunch for some who hadn’t already eaten all their lunch).  The final hour was a brisk walk along Green Ridge and back to Mountain Road and the cars.  A tiring but enjoyable day that saw us walking nearly 17 km, and climbing 7 summits over nearly 7 hours. 

#33 of 100 trips for 100 years - Rosella Ridge - River Track - Gold Miners Direct 19 February 2023

 

It promised to be another hot day but that didn't deter the 14 people who were keen for an up close look at Rosella Ridge in the Silver Peaks.  The pace was set early after leaving the cars and we made very good time along Green Ridge.  It helps that the track is so dry and in good condition which meant that we were able to walk and chat easily.  Each break in the trees was an opportunity for those of us (only two) for a short stop to reminisce about last weekend's Silver Peaks Half Marathon (#31/100 trips) that had seen us walking over this same track but in the opposite direction.  Everyone was feeling very warm by the time we reached Green Hut Site and were happy for a drink stop.

Feeling good after the break, it was straight uphill behind Green Hut Site to bushline where we were rewarded with views looking towards one of the high points in the Silver Peaks, Pulpit Rock.  The track climbs 160m from Green Hut Site to the turn off to Rosella Ridge.  The water gouged track is easy to follow up through the low growing scrub and it was during this part that we really started to notice the humidity. 

Some of the team opted to tackle the extra 100m climb to the top of Pulpit Rock while others of us (who had been there for lunch last weekend) chose to wait at the Rosella Ridge turnoff.  It was a nice half hour wait for the Pulpit Rock group to return and then the next section was down Rosella Ridge.  Rosella Ridge is an informal name which appeared in the 1980’s from a couple of club members who spotted a Rosella while walking on this ridge.  At the time it was erroneously referred to as ‘Parakeet Ridge’ until the late 1980's when it was changed to the more appropriate name of Rosella Ridge.

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Rosella Ridge is a long, defined ridge that has a number of 'bumps' with the track going up and over each bump.  The track is well maintained through the shoulder high scrub which offers some shade from the noon day sun. We reached the end 'bump' affectionately known by the informal name of 'Little Pulpit Rock' for a final rest and where we were able to look across to The Cat's Teeth on Rocky Ridge (trip #5/100trips). From this vantage point we were also able to take in 360 degree views of the Silver Peaks. 

Being a little early for lunch, we continued walking and entered the mature manuka and kanuka bush as it dropped gently at first 450m down to the Waikouaiti River where we would join the River Track.  The track down through the native bush is very pleasant with ferns and mossy undergrowth along a steeply sided ridge.  A piwakawaka/fantail followed us along the trail, enjoying the feast of microscopic bugs that we stirred up as we passed through.  Partway down the ridge we stopped for a lunch break, spread out along the track in the shade.  Once lunch was over, we were back on the track, passing a number of tracks that branch off down the sides of Rosella Ridge

By following Rosella Ridge all the way down to the Waikouaiti River we eventually met up with the River Track (#28/100 trips), We had last been on this track only a couple of weeks ago, however this time we were doing the track in reverse and it was surprising to see how much climbing the track does alongside the Waikouaiti River. 

We were feeling grateful to be in the bush as the heat and humidity was high.  It was also a relief to be beside the river as we were able to stop at the small side creeks and refill our nearly empty water bottles.  The cold water from the side creeks was refreshing and some of the group took the opportunity to dunk their hats in the cold water.  After  an hour walking along the River Track we reached the Goldminers Direct Track which is a steep 30 minute climb up a number of zig zags and steps to Mountain Road and the cars in 7 hours and 15km.

#31 of 100 trips for 100 years - OTMC Silver Peaks Half Marathon 11 February 2023

Through the 1970's-2000's the OTMC Marathon has held legendary status for those wanting to test their fitness over the 60+km course through the Silver Peaks.  Nowadays part of the original course is not so easy to access as it goes through pine plantation and at nearly 40km long the half marathon is still a considerable challenge.  It was heartening to have eight people arrive for the 6am start of the Pineapple Track for what was sure to be a long and tiring day. 

The Pineapple Track climbs a steep 480m to the top of Flagstaff starting with native bush and eventually onto the tussock tops.  Starting in the dark through the bush and coming out into the tussock gave us a chance for a short stop to take in the sunrise and the beautiful coloured sky promising a warm day ahead. 

We didn't have time to linger for too long because we still had a long way to go.  Up the hill we went enjoying the sunrise and the wonderful cloud formations as we continued on to the top of Flagstaff.  It was here that we  stopped for a breather and drink at the top by the plane table.  A fitting place to stop with the plane table highlighting features on the city skyline, and was installed in 1973 by the OTMC after it's 50th anniversary and here we were, about to celebrate the 100th anniversary. 

By now the sun was up and with the first uphill section completed we were able to relax a little and regain our breath as we started downhill to the Bull Ring.  We regrouped at the Bull Ring before tackling the 6km road walk of Whare Flat Road  to Silver Stream which saw us drop 400m in height, effectively losing all the height we had gained. 

The road walk wasn't as bad as I had feared with the time passing quickly as we all took the opportunity to chat on this downhill section.  Being still early there was very little traffic on the gravel road and we were able to stop at the ford where one of our OTMC members, Trevor Mason, drowned while completing the OTMC marathon 15 years ago.  Unlike 15 years ago when the weather was atrocious and the river was rushing over the ford, today there was no water and we were able to cross with dry feet. A complete contrast to 15 years ago. 

Once at the bottom of the hill we climbed over the stile and walked alongside Silver Stream through the bush to the weir.  We crossed the weir before taking the track towards the Powder Hill turn off which is where the fun really began as the climb of 480m up Powder Hill is particularly steep and gnarly until the ridge is gained and the gradient eases off slightly.  Even though the upper part of the ridge is not as steep as lower down it continues to climb and fall as the track goes over a number of false summits before reaching the junction with Long Ridge. All the height we had gained climbing up Flagstaff, then losing as we headed downhill to Silver Stream, was gained again on Powder Ridge.  Stopping for another breather in the shade of the bush at the junction of Long Ridge we contemplated that we were half way through our journey and thankfully most of the climbing was behind us. The walk along Long Ridge is very pleasant as it follows the contour and is open grassy tops giving plenty of opportunity to take in the expansive views of the Silver Peaks and particularly our destination for lunch, Pulpit Rock.

The final push to Pulpit Rock involves a 120m climb which took us to a great place to sit and admire the views while having a well deserved lunch.  Despite there still being quite a distance to go, psychologically reaching Pulpit Rock was a big milestone in our journey as we could see our next obstacle, Swampy Summit which was the highest point of the half marathon and then not far behind, in the distance is Flagstaff and the end of our journey.  Knowing we still had a few hours of walking ahead of us, lunch was eaten reasonably quickly and we were off again. 

We dropped 120m down the ridge to Green Hut Site where we grabbed a few minutes for a drink and although feeling a little weary by now our spirits were high.  Green Hut Site is the site of the club's first hut built in 1933, 10 years after the club had started.  After a short break, we were off again, through the bush along Green Ridge.  At least this part of the track follows the contour so we were able to stretch our legs and make good time along the track.  Often the Green Ridge track can be muddy but with all the good weather of summer the track is very dry and hard underfoot. 

A stop at the turnoff to Swampy Summit was compulsory as we met up with our support person Jade who had walked in to meet us with a supply of water and lollies.  Gratefully we helped to relieve her of most of the weight in her pack as the water was greedily shared amongst us and the lollies were quickly devoured.  The next section of the journey involved another 300m climb up to Swampy Summit. Previous trips along this part of the track had involved ankle deep mud but again with a dry summer the track was dry with only the occasional muddy section that was easily avoided.  This made for reasonably quick walking until the terrain steepens as we approached the top of Swampy Summit.

 Taking shelter behind a building to avoid the wind, we regrouped for a final drink and snack stop.  It was a good feeling to know that most/all of the climbing was behind us and there only remained a few more kilometres between us and the finish.  Shouldering our bags for one last time we trudged along the gravel road along the top of Swampy before taking the Swampy Summit track to Flagstaff.  Deceptively there are  a couple of small ups and downs on the track which taxed tired legs.  Finally we reached the Flagstaff turn off and it was all down hill for the last few kilometres, dropping 400m to where we had started 11 hours and nearly 40km (with 1600m of climbing) earlier.